Today. The city is gradually recovering from the war and is trying to return to peaceful life, however, it will take more than one year for its complete restoration.

At the entrance to Debaltsevo. The stele was repaired and painted. The previous one, with patriotic inscriptions, was, of course, more colorful, but this one is quite a beauty

You can see houses like this in Debaltsevo. But the rubble is being cleared, the houses are getting ready for restoration!

We met many families with children. It got warmer, and the little “bugs” crawled out for a walk in the spring sun.

The restoration of the city is in full swing. I first came to Debaltsevo immediately after liberation, on March 3, 2015. There is something to compare with.

Novogrigorievka. Previously, it was the Artemovsky district, now the village is subordinate to the Debaltsevo administration. Beautiful.

It is quite difficult to find entire houses in Novogrigoryevka. Of the 300 pre-war residents of the village, there are now only a hundred.

And here, near the village store, there was a mortar position of Ukrainian troops.

It's dangerous to wander there - it's full of mortar shells with fuses and other rusty junk.

For example, this one.

Mass grave of Soviet soldiers. A shrapnel hit the soldier statue directly in the chest.

Here lie the soldiers of the 71st brigade of the NKVD Internal Troops.

General view.

We found such a rare “device” made of metal.

On the day of the Hammer and Sickle holiday!

To this day, there are gas masks, cartridges, and various army junk lying around in the grass. Who lost a skating rink from a motorcycle league?

Courtyard of a residential building. Here stood "Krivbass" - the 40th motorized infantry battalion of the Ukrainian Armed Forces.

Everything will be useful on the farm.

People live here.

With children.

Village "8 March". Previously, this was Chapaev Street. Now local wits have nicknamed it the street “Name of Tank Biathlon”. Fleeing from the DPR army, Ukrainian tank crews simply shot at these houses from tank guns.

Year of construction: 1947. Destroyed in 2015.

And here it is clearly visible that this was not an “arrival” from somewhere above, but a direct fire shooting of the house.

"Data center" of the Debaltsevo railway junction. Well, or what's left of it.

Debaltsevo, monument to those killed in 2014 - 2015.

Monument to the heroine of the Civil War L.G. Mokievskaya-Zubok, commander of armored train No. 3 “Power to the Soviets!”

A year ago. March 03, 2015. During the retreat, Ukrainian soldiers abandoned their wounded. They know that our wounded are not finished off, but treated, which cannot be said about our opponents - according to official data from the DPR, only three out of ten militias survive in Ukrainian captivity.

A year ago. March 03, 2015. During the retreat, they threw everything away - army and personal documents, things, weapons and ammunition, equipment, and even cute little toys that Ukrainian children sent to their “ATO heroes.”

HISTORY OF DEBALTSEVO Debaltsevo is a city of regional subordination, located in the eastern part of the Donetsk region, in the center of the Debaltsevo-Ivanovo ridge, which reaches its highest point here - 334 meters above sea level. The distance to the regional center is 76 km. Debaltsevo is the largest railway junction in the country. The city of Debaltsevo was founded in 1878 as a railway station in connection with the construction of the Catherine Railway. The railway station building, erected in 1879, has survived to this day; it is now an architectural monument. The name is associated with the adjacent village of Ilyinka, which in the 19th century was granted to State Councilor Ilya Nikolaevich Deboltsov for his participation in the suppression of the Decembrist uprising. After some time, Ilyinka received her second unofficial name - Deboltsovka. This is exactly how it was indicated on topographic maps of the 19th century, and the station, which was founded on the northern borders of Deboltsov’s estate, was named Debaltsevo.

In 1894, a mechanical plant was built near the station. It produced construction trusses, railway bridge spans, and trolleys for narrow gauge railways. In 1905 - 1908 in Debaltsevo, Donetsk region, the following were built: -a freight station, -two depots, -carriage workshops were expanded.

In 1911, the population of Debaltsevo was 20 thousand people. The village had no running water or paved streets. There were two small hospitals, an outpatient clinic, a parish school, a zemstvo school and a railway school. During the February Revolution, the Civil War and before the establishment of Soviet power in 1919, the city of Debaltsevo changed hands more than once. At the beginning of the Civil War, Debaltsevo was a border point of the UPR. Further, at different periods in Debaltsevo there were Don Cossacks, Denikin’s troops, the Red Army, and during the reign of Hetman Skoropadsky, from April to December 1918, the Austro-German armed forces. In 1919, the attack on Debaltsevo was developed by the armored train “Power to the Soviets!”, under the command of L. G. Mokievskaya-Zubok. She died during the battle for the station. But after the Bolsheviks, Debaltsevo was occupied by Denikin’s troops. By the end of 1919, Soviet power was established in Debaltsevo. In 1921, Debaltsevo received the status of a district town of Bakhmutsky (later Yenakievsky) district. The village received city status in 1938. By 1939, the population of the city of Debaltsevo had grown to 33 thousand people. The following appeared in the city: -Water supply, -Electricity, -A palace of culture for railway workers with 1200 seats was built, -A stadium was built, -A branch of the Kharkov Railway Institute was opened. -During the first five-year plans, the railway junction and the machine-building plant underwent reconstruction. The plant began to produce steel-pouring ladles, slag carriers, cast iron carriers, and blast furnace valves. DEBALTSEVO during the Great War At the beginning of December 1941, offensive-defensive battles began in the Debaltsevo direction. After the Nazi troops were defeated as a result of the Red Army's offensive near Rostov, the enemy began offensive operations to finally capture Donbass. In this regard, he launched the 52nd Italian Torino Division and a group of troops of General Schwedler on the offensive. Fierce fighting broke out on the front of the 12th Army. The enemy in this direction was opposed by units of the Red Army as part of the 71st brigade of the NKVD troops (95th border regiment; 172nd, 175th and 176th rifle regiments), 74th rifle division (Fyodor Efimovich Sherdin) - 78 1st, 109th and 306th rifle regiments and 176th rifle division consisting of the 404th and 591st regiments. After repeated air raids, with the support of fresh infantry and motorized units, the enemy pushed back the positions of the 74th Infantry Division and completely occupied Debaltsevo. But individual pockets of resistance in the city did not subside until December 22, when soldiers of the 74th Division, 95th NKVD Regiment and individual units of the 71st Brigade rushed into Debaltsevo with a swift attack and liberated the city. The enemy suffered heavy losses in personnel; the headquarters documents of the 117th Infantry Regiment, its banner, a log of combat operations and personnel records, and the Order of the Iron Cross, intended to maintain the morale of the occupiers, were captured. The fighting on the front line, which passed through the eastern border of the city of Debaltsevo, did not stop at the beginning of January 1942. The 176th Rifle Division, going on the offensive, captured Komissarovka and the village of Oktyabrsky. Again, street fighting broke out in the city, and a sniper war broke out. Once again, the Soviet units were forced to retreat, gaining a foothold along the eastern border of the city on the dominant heights of the forest beam. Here the front line stabilized until the summer of 1942. Confirmation that in the winter of 1941-1942 there were bloody battles on the territory of the city is evidenced by the combat stories of some Red Army soldiers who were awarded orders and medals for defensive-offensive battles in the area of ​​​​the city of Debaltsevo. On September 3, 1943, it was liberated from German troops by Soviet troops of the Southern Front during the Donbass operation. Debaltsevo 1964

Microdistricts and parts of the city: -The Tsentralny microdistrict occupies the central part of the city. The main administrative institutions are located here - the city council and executive committee, the department of internal affairs, the city communications center and others. Also located here is the railway station and locomotive depot Debaltsevo-Passenger (TC-14). -The Cheryomushki microdistrict is located in the west of the city. The area was built in the 70s on drained swamps. Consists of four- and five-story buildings. In the microdistrict there is the Debaltsevo branch of the Artemovsk Technical School of Railway Transport, secondary school No. 4, kindergarten No. 4, and a branch of Oschadbank. On the outskirts of the microdistrict there is a departmental hospital of the Debaltsevo station. Village named after Ryazantsev - Popular name - “Ryazan”. The village is named after the civil war hero F.A. Ryazantsev, located in the southeast of Debaltsevo. The Znamenka-Lugansk-Izvarino highway runs through its territory. Development - private sector. Secondary school No. 2 is located here. The natural border in the east is the Solenaya gully. The factory village is one of the oldest districts of the city. It was founded at the end of the 19th century at a mechanical plant. During Soviet times, the village was improved and landscaped. The factory village is built up with two and five-story buildings. In the Zavodsky village there is a city sanitary and epidemiological station, a Culture and Leisure Center (formerly a recreation center of the plant), a Ukrtelecom branch, a city fire department, a kindergarten and the Avangard stadium. -The village named after Tolstov is the eastern outskirts of the city. Named in honor of A. N. Tolstoy, a Soviet writer who, in the story “Frosty Night,” described the events at the Debaltsevo station during the Civil War. Consists of individual buildings. The Central City Hospital and the Hill of Glory are located in this area. -The Vostochny microdistrict is one of the “youngest” districts of the city. The microdistrict is built up with standard five-story buildings. According to the project, as a result of the expansion, it was supposed to merge with the microdistrict named after the 50th anniversary of the Victory, but due to the decline in construction, this failed. Here is school No. 1, kindergarten, and vocational school. A pilot heating project was implemented in the Vostochny microdistrict - an electric boiler house was built. The village named after Konyaev is named after the hero of two revolutions N.N. Konyaev, who was shot dead on December 28, 1917 on the platform of the Debaltsevo station. Buildings - private sector. Stretched along the railway. There is a city bakery here, as well as PCH-5. -The microdistrict named after the 50th anniversary of the Victory is an area of ​​mixed development. Multi-storey buildings in the north of the area are being transferred to the private sector. North-eastern tip of Debaltsevo. The microdistrict is closely connected with nearby railway enterprises. There is a secondary school No. 6, a kindergarten, and paramilitary guards of the Donetsk Railway. Stop point "I platform". -The Festivalny microdistrict is located in the north of the city. The microdistrict is built up with high-rise buildings. Young district of Debaltsevo. There are many railway enterprises located here: a car sorting depot, an asphalt plant, PMS-9, a meteorological station, the “We” sports complex, the “Kolesny” and “Meteorological” stopping points. -The village “8 March” is a village adjacent to the railway. One of the most remote areas from the center. Northern outskirts of the city. Private sector. Here is school No. 7, kindergarten, KRMZ. The village of Oktyabrsky is the northeastern outskirts of the city. The most remote area from the center. The settlement is limited by the railway lines to Chernukhino and Lugansk, as well as the highway. The locomotive depot Debaltsevo-Sortirovochnye (TC-10) is located here. Stop point "2nd platform". Social sphere: -2 hospitals, -16 kindergartens, -8 secondary schools, -3 evening schools, -Boarding school, -2 palaces of culture: Railway workers and named after the 40th anniversary of the Komsomol, -Music school, -Three summer cinemas, -2 Stadium, -Lokomotiv Sports Palace, -Sports Complex "WE", -Sports Children and Youth School (Youth Sports School), -29 libraries, -Local History Museum (since 1966), -House of Pioneers, -Station of Young Technicians. City attraction: -House of Science and Technology of the Carriage Depot (Kalinina Street) -Sports Complex "Lokomotiv" -City Culture and Recreation Center (Zavodskaya Street) -Railway Station (an architectural monument of the 19th century) -Monument to Internationalist Soldiers (Sovetskaya Street) -Monument soldiers-liberators from the Nazi invaders (Central Square) -Monument to the heroes who died in the Great Patriotic War (Zavodskoy village) Famous residents of Debaltsevo: Outstanding Russian geologist L.I. Lutugin - researcher of coal deposits, creator of an overview geological map of Donbass, for which he was awarded a large gold medal at the international exhibition in Turin in 1911. From 1898 to 1914, its summer headquarters were located in the city. poet Vladimir Sosyura. Boris Evdokimovich Shcherbina - Soviet statesman and party leader. One of the creators of the oil and gas complex in Western Siberia. Member of the CPSU Central Committee (1976 - 1990), candidate member of the CPSU Central Committee (1961 - 1976). Deputy of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR 6 - 11 convocations. G. V. Knyshov.

The remains of burnt Ukrainian tanks are rusting in a field literally a hundred meters from Debaltsevo. Photo by Dmitry Durnev

The only remaining funeral home in Debaltsevo has quite decent-looking coffins for sale. The ceiling is boarded up - a consequence of quick repairs after a direct hit from a shell.

It’s quiet here, and don’t bother us again,” says the owner. - I won’t talk to the journalist. There are just over 25 of us entrepreneurs left registered with the local tax office, a platoon, one might say. Everyone is visible and everyone is counted.

People of his profession in Donbass are generally taciturn. When grandmothers who left Debaltsevo in the terrible winter of 2015 die “in Ukraine,” they are taken to their native cemetery through checkpoint lines in a hearse of a local funeral home to be buried. In order to easily pick up a body from the territory controlled by the Ukrainian Armed Forces and bring it to the city under the control of the DPR, you need to have good contacts on both sides - and for this you should not chat with journalists.

A stranger among his own

Debaltsevo is the personification of the war in Donbass. In Soviet times, the city was a large railway junction of union importance, but with Ukraine gaining independence, the transit importance of the city decreased. If in 2001 36 thousand people officially lived here, then by 2014 there were already 24 thousand of them left.

Everything changed when war came to Donbass in 2014. In the spring, supporters of the DPR assumed power in the city, but on July 29, after a short battle, the transport hub came under the control of Ukraine. And then it turned out that in the new reality the strategic importance of the city is enormous: Debaltsevo is located on the Donetsk-Lugansk highway, and the control of the Armed Forces of Ukraine over the Debaltseve railway junction did not allow building a normal railway connection between the self-proclaimed republics and Russia.

In September 2014, after the Ilovaisk cauldron, the first Minsk agreements were signed, which fixed the location of Debaltsevo on territory controlled by Ukraine. But in January-February 2015, the armed formations of the DPR and LPR, with the support of Russian combat groups, went on the offensive here: the city was subjected to massive artillery shelling for weeks, battles took place on the near outskirts - today you can go to the former positions of the Ukrainian Armed Forces with the remaining remains of broken tanks on foot, they are 100–150 meters from the outermost houses. It was in these areas that the meme about the “combat Buryats” was born: a contract soldier of the 5th separate tank brigade of the Russian Federation from Ulan-Ude, Dorzhi Batomunkuev, who was burned in these battles, then told Novaya Gazeta about the combat path of his combined tank battalion in the Donbass. In the same Donetsk regional burn center, he managed chat under the camera and with State Duma deputy from Buryatia Iosif Kobzon.

There were practically no undamaged buildings left in Debaltsevo at that time; shells rained down everywhere. “We have only one house on Cheryomushki where there was not a single direct hit!” - this is how a resident of these very Cheryomushki, a microdistrict built up with standard Khrushchev five-story buildings, described the situation to Spectrum.

Not far from Station Square there is a Monument to Internationalist Soldiers drafted by the Debaltseve Military Commissariat and killed in Afghanistan. Photo by Dmitry Durnev/Spektr.Press

When, after prolonged battles, the armed formations of the DPR and LPR and, as the Ukrainian side claims, with the support of separate battalion-tactical groups of Russian contract soldiers surrounded and took Debaltsevo after heavy fighting, the city actually found itself twice outlawed. It is part of the unrecognized territories, while remaining - according to the demarcation line established in Minsk by the Memorandum of September 19, 2014 - a territory controlled by the Ukrainian authorities. Accordingly, the military operations around this city are considered legally justified by the Ukrainian Armed Forces.

Condition: war

We arrived in Debaltsevo for City Day. A festive car rally started here in the morning, and by 10:00 the football and chess tournaments were supposed to begin. Near the Sports Palace, which is being renovated, there is a football ground with artificial grass that was commissioned for the 2012 European Championship. There was a match going on, and a group of decently dressed people, a police squad, stood nearby. Our documents were immediately checked. A strong man in a suit turned out to be acting. the head of the city Igor Marinkov.

He sternly instructs one of his assistants to tell reporters about the tournament and gives us his farewell for the day: “Don’t ask residents about peacekeepers and the like. The management itself doesn’t quite understand what to say about this.”

The tournament is designed for a day, teams from four microdistricts of Debaltsevo play. No shooting is heard, and the expected front-line atmosphere is not felt.

We live and restore the city! - Marinkov strictly explains. - And the last shelling was relatively recent: on December 23, 2016, by order of the head of the republic, New Year trees were opened at the same time in all cities, announced in the press. By three o'clock in the afternoon the whole city had gathered in the central square: children, adults, performances, groups... And at 14:55 shells began to arrive. From our central square, the closest one fell 400 m.

How can I talk about this? - he continues. - We are in a simple state here - the war is going on, and at any moment it can come back. We live peacefully for now, we build, we restore what we can, the program includes the complete restoration of the city, of everything that was destroyed. Large programs are dedicated to what Debaltsevo simply forgot about after the Soviet Union. This is street lighting, roads...

Gas is also a priority. A year ago, we submitted an application to develop the project and cleared the route along which the gas pipeline from Uglegorsk would go. This project, of course, is very long and expensive, but we are working on it.

Fitness, wushu and barbed wire

Restoration work in the city is underway, and it is visible to the naked eye. In the scaffolding there is a Sports Palace with a swimming pool - by the end of 2017, hands had reached that too.

“We have a youth sports school here starting on October 1,” its director Alla Aleksandrovna Bulavina tells us. - And so, after the battles, we didn’t have any windows here at all, thanks to the people, they didn’t steal them - they came, helped, hid this equipment. Let's hope that the Sports Palace will be restored. We will have football, boxing, basketball, swimming... Swimming is still in such a special mode. Children will train in a dry gym, and once a week the administration will take the section by bus to train at the pool in Yenakievo. Throughout the Donetsk region ( Alla apparently meant the territories controlled by the DPR. - approx. "Spectra") there are no complete comprehensive schools for youth sports schools that offer more than five sports. They opened in Zugres in September, and here in October.”

Alla Bulavina leads us through the premises, leading us to the second floor into the only working showroom. Its walls are covered with photographs of masters of sports and champions from Debaltsevo, all of whom were involved in swimming.

Of all the halls, this is the only one for now, so that’s how we live for now,” she explains. - And fitness is here, and wushu, and everything that is possible and impossible.

Are there a lot of people walking around?

Many! We have nothing else in Debaltsevo. The palaces of culture are all closed, there were no cinemas, of course. There's just nothing. That’s why people come to us at least somewhere!

“Before, before the war,” she continues, “of course, it was a little different. The load is crazy! I remember I was doing water aerobics and I felt like I was falling and losing consciousness. I bend over and the whole group of girls bends down behind me. And I told them: “Girls, this is no longer an exercise! ( laughs)».

Outside the window you can see how along the perimeter of the Sports Palace courtyard the roof of the utility rooms is thickly covered with barbed wire. Maybe from looters?

No, it was probably the wire that needed to be written off! - the director of the Palace responds to the unspoken question with a laugh. “During the war there was nothing here, there were empty openings everywhere, it was very bad and very scary. But we immediately went to work in March 2015. They collected the remains of glass, doors, raked it from scratch here, ice, fragments... For a long time then they worked without windows.

We go downstairs and go into the hall where there are weight machines and barbells. New plastic windows with window openings that have not yet been plastered are striking. On Saturday, a couple of weightlifting veterans train here.

In a room with weight training equipment. Photo Before the war, Alla Bulavinova taught water aerobics classes herself. Photo by Dmitry Durnev/Spektr.Press

Alexander is a former coach, he lifts weights “for himself” and keeps in shape. When asked whether he will train children here, he answers evasively: “I would like to have a bigger salary so that I can support my family. Now I am officially unemployed, I work here and there so that my children have enough to eat. If I get a salary, I’ll go back to work, I’m still a trainer and teacher by training.”

Troubleshooting secrets

In addition to the renovated Sports Palace in Debaltsevo, the railway technical school, all schools, kindergartens, hospitals and most apartment buildings have already been renovated. Schools, kindergartens, hospitals are open. There are no cinemas in Debaltseve for a long time, the Palace of Culture is also closed for now.

Russian assistance played a decisive role in the restoration of the city. The scheme for restoring infrastructure on the territory of the self-proclaimed republics is, as far as possible, protected from local corruption risks. A private enterprise has been created in the DPR, which carries out “defect inspection” (description of damage and calculation of the volume and range of necessary building materials) and conducts monetary settlements with contractors. Glass, slate, paint, brick, etc. arrive here in the famous “white” humanitarian convoys. However, the company receives money only to pay for the work of builders. The “DPR Government” is, wherever possible, left out of the process. The amount of funds spent on restoration in the DPR is classified - however, it is clear that it is very significant.

“Here the “defection” went house by house, we moved along the street and “marked” houses 47, 49, 50,51 in a row,” my fellow traveler, an employee of the same private company involved in the restoration, tells me on the way. - The work was big, in two stages. The first stage is to close the holes and glazing. The second stage is already a massive restoration. I remember the contractors called me to the site, saying that I couldn’t work, the rocket was in the ceiling, and upon arrival there was a “dummy” sticking out from under the cluster rocket. It was an absolutely amazing moment at the railway junction hospital. There in the yard there are two pipes from Grad missiles, one after the other, they practically fit right in. Unique coincidence! The Grad package comes with dispersion, so the missiles probably came from different packages to the same point.”

Private houses are a separate category. They are completely rebuilt only if there are specific people who have lost their housing and urgently need it. Such people receive new “pink” (at first, the fresh plaster of typical buildings gave off a pink look) houses with all the household appliances. For those who fled the war to Russia or Ukraine, their houses are not being restored. At the same time, in Ukraine there is no regulatory framework allowing the reconstruction of damaged private houses by the state, just as there is no state assistance to “private owners”. Volunteers and international charitable organizations helped people in destroyed private households in Slavyansk with repairs.

“Here in 2015, squirrels were running between houses, I saw a fox in the city, there were few people,” my relative says with a smile.

Inner border

It sounds strange, but part of Debaltsev belongs to the LPR. This is another feature of the city - the border of the Donetsk and Lugansk regions before the war was always far behind it. After the fighting in 2015, as locals say, “in recognition of the merits of the Lugansk militia,” one district of Debaltsevo suddenly became part of the self-proclaimed Lugansk Republic.

This is no joke in Donbass. There are a large number of contradictions between the DPR and LPR, as well as a full-fledged customs border with legally adopted restrictions on the export of products and goods from Donetsk to Lugansk and back. The city of Debaltsevo turned out to be unevenly cut into two parts by a line of customs posts. The main part of the city still remains in the self-proclaimed DPR.

The rules for transporting products “across the border” are quite liberal. For example, a resolution of the Council of Ministers of the LPR, adopted in January 2017, allows the import across the border with the DPR duty-free of up to 1 liter of strong alcohol, up to 2 liters of wine, a carton of cigarettes, and 3 kg of chilled or fresh meat. And also three units of meat and dairy products, milk. Well, fruits and vegetables - up to 50 kilograms of each item.

The most severe restriction concerns cigarettes: 20 packs is not much. In Debaltsevo there is one of two tobacco factories that were not advertised before the war, and even more so now. The second - "Hamadey" - in Donetsk. “American” cigarettes with a message about the dangers of smoking in Czech can be freely purchased for 150 rubles (on the price tag 2.6 dollars) per block in a duty-free trailer just outside Yelenovka at the exit from the self-proclaimed republic to the territory controlled by Ukraine. The box and packaging of the cigarettes are of very high quality, but local smokers prefer to smoke “Rostov” cigarettes.

The last customs “aggravation” happened here in December 2017, when the DPR banned the movement of excisable goods “across the border,” but Debaltsev will no longer become a new divided Jerusalem. For local residents, the border was already invisible, and after the overthrow of Igor Plotnitsky in neighboring Lugansk in November 2017, integration processes quickly began between the self-proclaimed republics; in January 2018, a sharp reduction in customs restrictions was announced in Donetsk.

Bomb and tanks

We are going to look for a chess tournament in honor of City Day. There are private houses around, we move along Kalinin Street. A passenger car is loading next to one very decent house. We explain to the owners that the journalists are lost. Word by word, we started talking, and now the owner Ruslan says, pointing to the house opposite: “These are the ones who died. You see, there's a bomb right at the gate ( peculiarities of local slang; in the Donbass the word “bombing” almost always means artillery shelling; aviation was not used near Debaltsevo - approx. "Spectra") hit. The child was in the house or in the garage, but they were all here in the yard under the gate. Well, the child was the only one left alive. He was adopted by them, can you imagine?! The sister of the murdered owner took him in with her. From that corner to the “Molodezhny” store there are all traces, look there in the asphalt from a mine, here it hit a window, there is a cracked corner on the wall... We got it here! And even more for the outskirts.”

Ruslan leads us into his yard, still asking us not to take it off. Shows the place where he had a summer kitchen, and it was hit by a shell (now a very clean empty spot), a freshly restored wall of the house and a brick toilet. Toilet “overlooking the garden”: a direct mine hit knocked out half of the back wall, but the door and “throne” were preserved. “We haven’t gotten around to it yet,” explains the owner.

As we exit the street, we are caught by two cheerful, slightly tipsy guys. “Where did you go? - one of them shouts. - The football final is coming soon! Take a picture of us somewhere with a house in the background. We will take you to the tanks for this, not all of them have been taken out yet! It’s a ten-minute walk to the burnt-out Ukropov tanks, they’ve been there since February 15th, the towers are lying nearby. We will tell everything, let people know how we live here.”

I have already been to Debaltseve and last photographed these tanks in June 2016. The positions of the Ukrainian army begin immediately behind the last private houses around the ponds - a favorite vacation spot for the townspeople. As the locals say, the army group on the outskirts numbered about 3 thousand people, and in the dugouts, after a quick exit from the encirclement, a lot of things were left behind. The gypsies tried to dismantle the abandoned tanks for scrap metal, but things didn’t go beyond tracks and engine parts. The T-64 tank has a combat weight of 38.5 tons, and most of it is in the cast turret and hull. It is not possible to “remove” them with available civilian equipment or a cart.

Now the head of Debaltsev, Igor Marinkov, said that utility services have already removed most of the metal.

Interrupted game

We reach the local Center for Children and Youth Creativity. Next to it is a monument to the residents of Debaltsevo who died in Afghanistan, a row of tables with chairs - a chess tournament is underway. At a separate table, the chief judge of the competition is a very representative and very elderly man with some kind of order on his chest. The order is especially striking with its yellow-blue ribbon in the colors of the Ukrainian flag.

There are prize books in a stack on the table. At the top is “In the Trenches of Stalingrad” by Viktor Nekrasov, and the massive order on the chest of Mikhail Evseevich Gershinsky is a sign of an honorary citizen of the city of Debaltsevo. Everyone here knows this man, the town is small, and the best director of the best school for many years is remembered and loved.

“A tournament in honor of the city day, 26 participants, 10 men and 16 children aged from third to eleventh grade,” the organizer explains sedately. - We have prizes: medals, certificates, books, a special chess cake for children. Men have money. As far as I know, there is a 200 ruble prize for first place among adults!”

“My name is Mikhail Evseevich Gershinsky,” he introduces himself. “I have 60 years of teaching experience, I am a master of sports in chess, now I lead a chess club at the Center for Children and Youth Creativity, I worked here as a school director for many years.”

There is a shop nearby that everyone also knows - the best pies in the city are fried here.

Coffee here costs 14 rubles, instant coffee, and pies for every taste - with or without all the fillings. Prices are affordable - from 7 rubles for “brushwood” without filling to 20 rubles for belyashi with meat. Local watermelons cost 8 rubles, imported lemons and oranges cost 130 and 110 rubles per kilogram.

The cheerful saleswoman readily explains: “We fry the pies ourselves, we’ve been working for about 15 years, we have a completely formal kitchen, we fry and bake every day.

Were you interrupted during the war?

They closed in January 2015 when, at the height of the fighting, the city was left without electricity. They didn’t work for about a month and a half, everything here was stolen, thank God the equipment was preserved. Then we bought goods again, restored the kitchen, our cooks and sellers returned and, you see, we are working again!”

The city market, which was half-burnt after an APU strike in July 2014, is also open. Black charred structures are adjacent to counters with goods. We suddenly realize that during all the time we spent in Debaltsevo we did not hear a single sound of war. Perhaps it was just luck, but the city is still more rear-facing in spirit than front-line. Against the background of the terrible battles of January-February 2015, for the locals all this time is peace.

Book with a fragment

We are not welcome at the Debaltsevo city library. “You know, let me tell you the truth, do you need it? Moreover, I left here at the height of the fighting,” says the librarian. While we are going to the second floor, she still breaks through: “How was the library preserved? It's simple! People here had no time for reading, and when all our doors and windows were blown out by explosions, no one went to steal books!”

We come to the leading librarian of the centralized library system, Elena Nikolaevna.

“How did the library survive? - Elena Nikolaevna continues. - Two hailstorms hit the center of the square, the factory’s cultural center burned down, but the city library survived. They hit the city hard, but thanks to God and our prayers, it didn’t hit the library. The only thing was that there was no glass, the curtains were all on the street. We have a literary and historical museum on the third floor: now there is a library book with a fragment inside, this fragment or others hit us, but one of our doors was knocked out and slightly damaged the wall. Workers from the employment center fixed it, plastered it, now nothing is visible.

We preserve the library fund, humanitarian aid was sent to us from the city of Odintsovo from the Moscow region in books, they come from the exchange and reserve fund of the Donetsk Republican Library named after Krupskaya Book, and they come to Donetsk from St. Petersburg and other cities of Russia. Of course, I would like there to be more subscriptions, but there is still something, people are reading well now.

Do they make a lot of money in the library?

Well, I have experience, higher education, with all the extras - 7,700 rubles, so from 6,000 for librarians. For our city, this is considered normal for a woman. Many people work for less.”

Have you been to a chess tournament? - she is keenly interested - have you seen Mikhail Evseevich Gershinsky? It’s so nice that he’s in the city now, he writes poetry here, he’s a very versatile person!”

"Thank God they are alive"

The central square is being prepared for the evening festive concert, a stage is being installed. Next to the stage there are several banners in the colors of the DPR flags with poems apparently by local poets. The closest one is signed “Inna Morozova”:

Managed to harden himself in fierce battles

And survived, despite all the troubles

Debaltsevo - knight of the iron roads

Your fellow countrymen will glorify you with your hard work!

We are going to our childhood home. From Debaltsevo, with my brother and two cousins, my grandmother was kidnapped to Germany in 1941. They are all no longer alive, but the house remains.

Nothing has changed here since last year - a trace from a mine that landed in the winter of 2015 in front of the gate, a roof repaired after a hail of shrapnel, flowers in pots on shelves in the yard, and next to them an exhibition of those same fragments collected in the garden.

We are escorted out of the city, “to the tanks” along a street with fences riddled with shrapnel next to brand new “Russian” humanitarian houses, a familiar pattern on the fence repeatedly stitched with military iron - the cat Leopold from the Soviet cartoon, who asked the mice to “live together.” Everything is really very close here. The steppe, stavkas (that’s what these places called reservoirs artificially created in the old days), overgrown caponiers of tanks, mounds of former dugouts, broken concrete floor beams of fortifications unnecessary on the farm...

“They removed some of the iron,” says my uncle, “And the cemetery where your great-grandmother is buried seems to have been cleared of mines, everything there has become overgrown in two years of passion!” And so they clean and put away. All the unemployed are registered at the employment center, they receive 2.5 thousand rubles a month, and for this they work in landscaping. Everything is strict! Even the daughter of the local gypsy baron chalked the street!”

The sun is setting, someone is bathing at the headquarters behind the broken concrete floors of the Ukrainian dugout, there is a tank hull, a turret and a well-known shell casing from a tank shell. Last June, 82 mm mines from company mortars and tanks were still lying scattered here. Our driver arrives and picks up a fragment from a mine next to the wheel; there are a lot of them in the ground here.

We have to go.

“Thank God, they’re alive! And then we’ll see…” says my uncle.

Debaltsevo city, Donetsk region

Debaltsevo- a city of regional subordination, located in the eastern part of the Donetsk region, in the center of the Debaltsevo-Ivanovo ridge, which reaches its highest point here - 334 meters above sea level. The distance to the regional center is 76 km. Debaltsevo is the largest railway junction in the country.
Located: Ukraine, Donetsk region.

Founded in 1878 as a railway station in connection with the construction of the Catherine Railway. The railway station building, erected in 1879, has survived to this day; it is now an architectural monument.

The name is associated with the adjacent village of Ilyinka, which in the 19th century was granted to State Councilor Ilya Nikolaevich Deboltsov for his participation in the suppression of the Decembrist uprising. After some time, Ilyinka received her second unofficial name - Deboltsovka. This is exactly how it was indicated on topographic maps of the 19th century, and the station, which was founded on the northern borders of Deboltsov’s estate, was named Debaltsevo.

In 1894, a mechanical plant was built near the station. It produced construction trusses, railway bridge spans, and trolleys for narrow gauge railways.

In 1905 - 1908 in Debaltsevo, Donetsk region, the following were built:

• freight station,
• two depots,
• carriage workshops were expanded.

In 1911, the population of Debaltsevo was 20 thousand people. The village had no running water or paved streets. There were two small hospitals, an outpatient clinic, a parish school, a zemstvo school and a railway school.

During the February Revolution, the Civil War and before the establishment of Soviet power in 1919, the city of Debaltsevo changed hands more than once. At the beginning of the Civil War, Debaltsevo was a border point of the UPR. Further, at different periods in Debaltsevo there were Don Cossacks, Denikin’s troops, the Red Army, and during the reign of Hetman Skoropadsky, from April to December 1918, the Austro-German armed forces.

In 1919, the attack on Debaltsevo was developed by the armored train “Power to the Soviets!”, under the command of L. G. Mokievskaya-Zubok. She died during the battle for the station. But after the Bolsheviks, Debaltsevo was occupied by Denikin’s troops. By the end of 1919, Soviet power was established in Debaltsevo.

In 1921, Debaltsevo received the status of a district town of Bakhmutsky (later Yenakievsky) district.

The village received city status in 1938. By 1939, the population of the city of Debaltsevo had grown to 33 thousand people. The following appeared in the city:

• water supply,
• electricity,
• a palace of culture for railway workers with 1200 seats was built,
• the stadium was built
• A branch of the Kharkov Railway Institute was opened.

During the first five-year plans, the railway junction and the machine-building plant underwent reconstruction. The plant began to produce steel-pouring ladles, slag carriers, cast iron carriers, and blast furnace valves.

In the 1970s, new multi-storey microdistricts “Cheryomushki” (in the north-east of the city), named after the 50th anniversary of the Victory and Vostochny were built, and in the 1980s the “Festivalny” microdistrict was also built.

Neighborhoods and parts of the city:

• The Tsentralny microdistrict occupies the central part of the city. The main administrative institutions are located here - the city council and executive committee, the department of internal affairs, the city communications center and others. Also located here is the railway station and locomotive depot Debaltsevo-Passenger (TC-14).
• The Cheryomushki microdistrict is located in the west of the city. The area was built in the 70s on drained swamps. Consists of four- and five-story buildings. In the microdistrict there is the Debaltsevo branch of the Artemovsk Technical School of Railway Transport, secondary school No. 4, kindergarten No. 4, and a branch of Oschadbank. On the outskirts of the microdistrict there is a departmental hospital of the Debaltsevo station.
• Village named after Ryazantsev - Popular name - “Ryazan”. The village is named after the civil war hero F.A. Ryazantsev, located in the southeast of Debaltsevo. The Znamenka-Lugansk-Izvarino highway runs through its territory. Development - private sector. Secondary school No. 2 is located here. The natural border in the east is the Solenaya gully.
• The factory village is one of the oldest districts of the city. It was founded at the end of the 19th century at a mechanical plant. During Soviet times, the village was improved and landscaped. The factory village is built up with two and five-story buildings. In the Zavodsky village there is a city sanitary and epidemiological station, a Culture and Leisure Center (formerly a recreation center of the plant), a Ukrtelecom branch, a city fire department, a kindergarten and the Avangard stadium.
• The village named after Tolstov is the eastern outskirts of the city. Named in honor of A. N. Tolstoy, a Soviet writer who, in the story “Frosty Night,” described the events at the Debaltsevo station during the Civil War. Consists of individual buildings. The Central City Hospital and the Hill of Glory are located in this area.
• The Vostochny microdistrict is one of the “youngest” areas of the city. The microdistrict is built up with standard five-story buildings. According to the project, as a result of the expansion, it was supposed to merge with the microdistrict named after the 50th anniversary of the Victory, but due to the decline in construction, this failed. Here is school No. 1, kindergarten, and vocational school. A pilot heating project was implemented in the Vostochny microdistrict - an electric boiler house was built.
• The village named after Konyaev is named after the hero of two revolutions N.N. Konyaev, who was shot dead on the platform of the Debaltsevo station on December 28, 1917. Buildings - private sector. Stretched along the railway. There is a city bakery here, as well as PCH-5.
• The microdistrict named after the 50th anniversary of the Victory is an area of ​​mixed development. Multi-storey buildings in the north of the area are being transferred to the private sector. North-eastern tip of Debaltsevo. The microdistrict is closely connected with nearby railway enterprises. There is a secondary school No. 6, a kindergarten, and paramilitary guards of the Donetsk Railway. Stop point "I platform".
• The Festivalny microdistrict is located in the north of the city. The microdistrict is built up with high-rise buildings. Young district of Debaltsevo. There are many railway enterprises located here: a car sorting depot, an asphalt plant, PMS-9, a meteorological station, the “We” sports complex, the “Kolesny” and “Meteorological” stopping points.
• The village “8 March” is a village adjacent to the railway. One of the most remote areas from the center. Northern outskirts of the city. Private sector. Here is school No. 7, kindergarten, KRMZ.
• The village of Oktyabrsky is the northeastern outskirts of the city. The most remote area from the center. The settlement is limited by the railway lines to Chernukhino and Lugansk, as well as the highway. The locomotive depot Debaltsevo-Sortirovochnye (TC-10) is located here. Stop point "2nd platform".

Social sphere:

• 2 hospitals,
• 16 kindergartens,
• 8 secondary schools,
• 3 evening schools,
• boarding school,
• 2 palaces of culture: Railway workers and the name of the 40th anniversary of the Komsomol,
• music school,
• three summer cinemas,
• 2 stadiums,
• Sports Palace "Lokomotiv"
• sports complex "WE"
• Sports school for children and youth (youth school),
• 29 libraries,
• local history museum (since 1966),
• pioneer house,
• station for young technicians.

City attractions:

• House of Science and Technology of the Carriage Depot (Kalinina Street)
• Sports complex "Lokomotiv"
• City center of culture and recreation (Zavodskaya street)
• Railway station (19th century architectural monument)
• Monument to Internationalist Soldiers (Sovetskaya Street)
• Monument to the soldiers-liberators from the Nazi invaders (Central Square)
• Monument to the heroes who died in the Great Patriotic War (Zavodskoy village)

Famous residents of Debaltsevo:

• the outstanding Russian geologist L.I. Lutugin is a researcher of coal deposits, the creator of a survey geological map of Donbass, for which he was awarded a large gold medal at the international exhibition in Turin in 1911. From 1898 to 1914, its summer headquarters were located in the city.
• poet Vladimir Sosyura.
• Boris Evdokimovich Shcherbina - Soviet statesman and party leader. One of the creators of the oil and gas complex in Western Siberia. Member of the CPSU Central Committee (1976 - 1990), candidate member of the CPSU Central Committee (1961 - 1976). Deputy of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR 6 - 11 convocations.
• Hero of Ukraine G. V. Knyshov.