Travel to the north of Russia. Teriberka village, Murmansk region

Lodeynoye made a strong and powerful impression... The scale of decline and total sadness, it’s strange that the film was not filmed there. Having explored every nook and cranny of Lodeynoye, we went to the old village, old Teriberka. The village received its name from the river Teriberka of the same name, the name of which, in turn, appears from the outdated name of the Kola Peninsula - Ter. The villages are separated by a road about 2 km long passing through a small pass.

We go up the mountain... Lodeynoye remains behind us.

By the way, I never found the sign for Lodeynoye... Both entry and exit signs for both villages have the same name.

After passing the pass, a view of the old Teriberka opens up. We were very lucky with the weather and the warm evening light created the mood.

In the middle of the journey you find yourself in a ship graveyard. According to one of the legends, I heard that ships were left at home, because they believed that they should have been with their owners until the end.

The water of the Barents Sea is clean and transparent, but I don’t recommend letting your limbs go unnecessarily.

The famous bridge from the film... It was built in the mid-80s, before that there was a water crossing.

There is no house where Kolya lived... It was scenery.

Some ships have already grown into the ground.

I decided to shorten the path and go straight along the coastline... Someone’s fire was still smoldering there.

Pay attention to the thickness of the snow cover. In some places along the highway it reached more than 2 meters.

I shot without filters, so the saturated blue is true.

The bridge and here it is, Teriberka.

The first mention of Teriberka dates back to the 16th century. By that time, a Russian seasonal settlement of fishing industry - a camp - had appeared here. During the census of fishing huts in 1608, 6 huts were counted here - along with one of the three largest settlements in Eastern Murman. In 1623, the village was attacked by a Danish military squadron. The Danish fleet was able to smash the hastily built blockhouse with cannonballs, drive the Russians deeper into the mainland, seize supplies and destroy captured Russian boats. In 1809, during the Anglo-Russian War, the camp was completely burned by the British. By 1823, the camp was rebuilt and was considered one of the best in Murman.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Teriberka had fairly developed cod and shark fisheries (mainly the Norwegians, who had their own trading post and store here), and there was a fairly active trade in cod. Teriberka became a volost center in 1912. In 1914, the village had a population of 1,538.

At the end of the 1920s, the first collective farm was organized, which, in addition to fishing grounds, had its own dairy farm and reindeer herd. In 1927, the village became the center of the newly formed Teribersky district.

In the early 1930s, Teriberka was the home of Astrakhan kulaks-special settlers, who were resettled to Dalnie Zelentsy in 1932. I never got to them, but on the next photo tours I’ll definitely try to get halfway there. In the 1930s, a radio center was equipped in the village, electrification was carried out, a club, a cinema, a hospital, and a school were built. At the same time, the first newspaper in the region, “Teribersky Collective Farmer,” appeared, and amateur arts and sports developed. In 1938, Teriberka received the status of a workers' village.

The village of Teriberka achieved its greatest development after the end of the Great Patriotic War. In 1940-60, there were already two fishing collective farms, two dairy farms, a poultry farm, about 2,000 heads of deer, an American mink farm, two fish factories, workshops and warehouses of the Goslov White Sea base, ship repair workshops were working and developing at full capacity, active construction of housing and social and cultural facilities was underway, there was a stadium, a House of Culture, clubs for ship repair shops and a fish factory, a pioneer club, two schools - an elementary and an eight-year school, a boarding school for children from coastal villages, a hospital, a clinic, an outpatient clinic, and a printing house.

There are a huge number of boats and they are everywhere.

The dogs are attached and it made me happy.

No matter how much I would like to move away from Lodeyny’s memories, the devastation is still total. Obama is methodically teasing the Russian north.

Patches...Very impressed.

Teriberka was a regional center and developed and grew quite quickly. The decline in the village began in the 1960s, when the center of the region was moved to Severomorsk, large-capacity ships appeared, fleets went to the ocean, coastal fishing lost its importance, and fish processing, due to the development of a fishing port and fish processing plant in the city of Murmansk, came to naught. Later, in the process of “enlargement,” the Murmanets collective farm was liquidated along with the fur farm, Goslov’s Belomorsk base disintegrated, the reindeer herd was transferred to the village of Lovozero, and the fish factory was liquidated, since large ships could not enter the river.

I love textures like this.

Now the village is in a deplorable state: in addition to the deterioration of the infrastructure itself, the main problem is unemployment. About 170 people are officially listed as unemployed, but there is no work in the village other than maintaining the life support of the village itself. Teriberka is a half-abandoned settlement; there are many completely abandoned buildings, and a cultural center is in ruins.

People are either walking along the streets or sitting near houses.

And the choir seems to be popular. There were posters in Lodeynoye too.

Children like abandoned cars the most.

Old school building. Now children are transported in a pazik to Lodeynoye to a new school.

Teriberka became a free-to-visit area quite recently, but in a short time, interest in this northern region of the country has grown rapidly. However, despite all the popularity of the village, I found out about it completely by accident, while looking on the map for an accessible exit to the Arctic Ocean. To say that my trip to the edge of the continent gave me a lot of incredible impressions means to say nothing. Everything experienced and felt there cannot be described - you just need to come for these feelings.

This village can hardly cause despondency; rather, it is a stereotype imposed by cinema and the image of prosperous city life. The people living there will not express their dislike for the area. On the contrary, you can find various interviews on the Internet in which residents emphasize their strong attachment to their native land.

Despite the low population, life in the village does not stop.

It is worth noting that when talking about Teriberka, you need to keep two villages in mind: Lodeynoye (pronounced Lodeynoye) and Teriberka itself. On the map they are often designated as Novaya and Staraya Teriberka, respectively. The original version is correct, and this is how local residents demand to call their settlements. In essence, villages really do occupy different territories and have their own houses and shops. At the same time, they coexist so tightly that it feels like one village divided in two.

This nuance often confuses travelers who buy a ticket at the station or choose a route by car, since everyone has only the name “Teriberka” on their minds. Although essentially everyone goes to access the ocean, and therefore to Lodeynoye. So, trying to get to the ends of the earth, I gave the wrong destination at the station ticket office, so I had to sneak through one more stop.

How to get there?

Thus, we smoothly approached the topic of transport links. Since it is impossible to get directly to Teriberka from Moscow or St. Petersburg, I had to dig through the entire Internet to plot the most accurate and optimal route to my goal. Teriberka can only be reached through the city of Murmansk. The fact is that I was traveling from Yekaterinburg, but I did not have my own car. Why did we talk about the car? Because most of the sources are replete with adventure stories of “desperate” travelers, about the complexity and danger of the path. Allegedly, you can only get to Teriberka on your own, and harsh northern weather conditions will undoubtedly be a serious obstacle on the road. In fact, things took a much happier turn when I managed to contact a resident of Teriberka, who is the administrator of a local hostel (we’ll come back to this later).

So, to get to Teriberka, the first thing you need to do is get to the glorious city of Murmansk. Teriberka itself is a small village, to which there is only one road (from Murmansk), and helicopters can be found in the village only in emergency cases.

In addition, this is the only road to the Arctic Ocean along which any vehicle, be it a car or a bus, can travel almost without difficulty. Despite the apparent distance from the “big lights”, the specificity of the terrain and some wildness of the conditions, it is along this road that many travelers hitchhike to Teriberka and back to Murmansk.

Murmansk is the largest city in the Russian Federation on the territory of the Kola Peninsula, so the roads leading to it are very different. Since I stayed in St. Petersburg for some time, the plane ticket was purchased from there. In any case, there is no direct flight from Yekaterinburg to Murmansk (both by train and by plane).

You can get from Moscow or St. Petersburg to Murmansk:

By plane;
By train;
By car.

By plane

Approximate flight duration:

from St. Petersburg - 2 hours,
from Moscow - 2.5 hours.

Murmansk Airport

It is also important to pay attention to the time at which the plane lands: if you arrive at night, getting out of the airport will be difficult and expensive (it’s about an hour’s drive to Murmansk itself).

Murmansk Airport has little to please its newly arrived guests; it is strikingly different from the huge glass airports of megacities. It's basically a tiny building with a bunch of police officers, a baggage claim room, and one single toilet. You can get to Murmansk from the airport by taxi, which will cost you from 300 rubles. In addition, there is a regular bus number 106 at the airport, which for just 86 rubles will take you straight to the train station and bus station of the city, slowing down if necessary at all stops in the city. If your destination is Teriberka, then the bus station is where you need to go (the bus station and railway station in Murmansk are in the same place).

The screenshot shows the route from Murmansk Airport to the railway station and bus station.

Difficulties of the flight

I, like many other tourists, chose the route by air because of the speed of the flight and the saving of travel time. However, this option is not always successful - the Murmansk weather greatly affects the regularity, speed and quality of flights.

It is worth considering the risks, costs of time and money, since quite often the Murmansk airport is forced to close due to difficult weather conditions. This is exactly the situation I faced, after sitting for about 8 hours at Pulkovo airport waiting for departure. This waiting period is not the limit. Snow storms, dense clouds and blizzards can disrupt all plans and significantly spoil your mood. Therefore, for those who want to stick to their own schedules and save money, there are interesting low-cost rail flights. Although, of course, you can always try to find travel companions by car.

By train

There are regular train connections between Moscow (as well as St. Petersburg) and Murmansk, but there is not a wide selection of flights here. This is the main disadvantage compared to air travel.

Flight options

Travel time from St. Petersburg and Moscow differs by about 10 hours:

1 day and 2 hours from St. Petersburg,
1 day and 11–13 hours from Moscow.

In terms of cost, trains win by offering reserved seat options from RUB 2,448. for St. Petersburg and from RUB 3,081. for Moscow, as well as coupe from 4,412 rubles. for St. Petersburg and from 4,679 rubles. for Moscow. Judging by the reviews, the most comfortable is the branded train "Arktika", which runs from Moscow to Murmansk, sometimes picking up passengers in St. Petersburg.

The train option has many advantages: you will no longer be so dependent on weather conditions and will arrive at your destination at the planned time (and as a result, you will immediately find yourself in the city).

Murmansk station

The railway station is located in close proximity to the main interesting tourist sites of the city. But the most important thing is that the bus station is also located there, which greatly simplifies transfers in various directions. The bus, which picks up city guests from the airport, delivers them to the bus station as their final destination. The railway station itself is not particularly remarkable, but I remember it for its ease of movement, as well as for the police officers who kindly helped me find my way around.

By bus

Ticket prices

The path to Teriberka itself may seem more difficult than to Murmansk. It was not for nothing that I reduced each route to the train station and bus station, because the easiest and most profitable way to get to the ends of the earth is bus No. 241. Tickets (including both ways) can be purchased at the Murmansk bus station. Or you can buy it on the way back directly from the driver. The cost of a ticket to the Teriberka stop in January 2017 was 489 rubles. (return - 503 rubles), the final stop is the next one - “Lodeynoye”.

Please note that on the Google map Teriberka is called the village of Lodeynoye. Teriberka itself has no name on this map.

Lifehacks

Despite some assurances from the bus station workers, the distance between these stops is small, but the ticket price obviously increases. In fact, you can easily purchase a ticket to Teriberka and travel to Lodeynoye without any problems. A similar scheme works in the opposite direction - my return ticket to Murmansk was issued from the Teriberka stop, but I was able to leave Lodeynoye without any difficulties, without paying extra for the extra stop.

Bus schedule

It is important to know that the bus does not run every day, so when planning your trip, adjust to the following schedule:

There - Mon (17:40), Wed (18:00), Fri (18:00), Sun. (18:00);
Return - Mon, Tue, Thu, Sat (07:00).

Peculiarities

The stated travel time is 4 hours, but in fact it turns out to be about 3. In my case, due to plane delays, I had to completely change my plans because I didn’t make it to the bus on time. By the way, this is not the only problem. Bus traffic is often disrupted due to difficult weather conditions and snow drifts on the road. Usually, the road is not closed for a long period of time, as they try to clear it regularly. Naturally, this problem arises in winter.

For those who do not want to adapt to the bus schedule, there is an option to take a transfer to Teriberka, but such a pleasure will cost about 6,000 rubles. When searching for convenient transport, I came across only such offers, which was very annoying. Therefore, do not believe the drivers on various public pages and forums - the buses work, you don’t have to overpay crazy amounts.

The bus departs from the second platform of the bus station and brings passengers directly to the villages of Teriberka and Lodenoye. The conditions in the cabin are quite comfortable.

The train station and bus station in Murmansk are located in neighboring buildings.

By car

I didn’t have to get to Teriberka by car myself, but there are a lot of road enthusiasts. You can often find them in advance on the Internet and get together at least to Murmansk. However, drivers willing to give you a ride to Teriberka rarely appear on thematic websites.

If you suddenly decide to go to Teriberka in your own car, I can offer calculated routes.

Route Moscow - Teriberka

Route St. Petersburg - Teriberka

Clue:

Teriberka - the time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow 0

Kazan 0

Samara 1

Ekaterinburg 2

Novosibirsk 4

Vladivostok 7

When is the season? When is the best time to go?

The seasonality of Teriberka depends on what you hope to find there. Personally, as a winter lover, I went there in mid-January, when the polar night had just ended. This is a great opportunity to try your luck and see the northern lights - the most desirable sight for foreign tourists. Housing prices do not depend on the time of year. As for weather conditions, the air temperature here is unlikely to drop to −10–15°C; the perceived cold is created by high humidity and strong icy winds.

I made the right decision, wrapping myself like cabbage in a thousand clothes, including thermal underwear and a protective membrane. I’m not a freezing person, but it’s really not worth standing in an ordinary set of clothes for two hours at the top of a hill, waiting for at least some signs of the flickering of the northern lights. But with all this, winter in Teriberka is quite warm, especially for those who are familiar with the Ural and Siberian frosts.

At other times of the year, Teriberka also attracts tourists. True, you can no longer even dream about the northern lights, since after the end of the polar night it is gradually approaching the polar day. Apart from winter, I would recommend visiting the village towards the end of summer - beginning of autumn. During this period there will be more entertainment, fewer bloodthirsty insects, and wonderful bright colors on the moss-covered hills and sea cliffs.

I would call spring a less favorable time for a trip. You won’t find a riot of colors, flowering trees or singing nightingales there. According to eyewitnesses, snowdrifts continue to lie until May.

Teriberka is the Far North, so it will be interesting at any time of the year, because it is mysterious and unusual in nature. This is a region that, in any weather, makes a person immerse himself in the atmosphere of the north, listening to the world around him and his own feelings. I love the North to the depths of my soul, it gives a feeling of freedom and incredible strength, which is so often lacking in modern city life.

Teriberka in summer

Teriberka and Lodeynoye are two villages that are located on the coast of the Arctic Ocean, with its sandy beaches and clear salt water. Therefore, many people wonder about bathing. Having lived for 13 years on the Kola Peninsula, in close proximity to the Barents Sea, I can say that swimming in such conditions is very cold, but among locals and visitors there are desperate “walruses” who do not miss the opportunity to swim.

The average summer temperature in Teriberka is about +11°C, so such experiments can turn out very badly, especially considering the constant presence of cold northern winds. However, on the shores you can often meet scuba divers who are interested in hunting Kamchatka crab.

Summer is an interesting period for visiting Teriberka, because it is at this time that you can see a real polar day and experience different types of outdoor activities. In summer, the road to the villages is the most comfortable and uninterrupted. It is worth noting that the local summer is extremely short, it lasts literally a month (July).

Teriberka in autumn

Already from the end of July, autumn comes to Teriberka, with all the ensuing consequences. I would call this period of time one of the best in the life of the village and for tourism plans. There are always a lot of mushrooms and berries here, and it is at this time, according to local residents, that you can easily buy fresh fish from your hands. Temperatures vary from +8 to −2°С. Significant amounts of precipitation occur in both the summer and autumn months, so you need to be prepared for plenty of rain and dense clouds throughout the entire autumn period.

There are practically no trees in Teriberka and its surroundings, but shrubs, mosses and low-growing plants grow abundantly, which paint the hills in bright colors.

Teriberka in spring

Spring in Teriberka begins around April, but the polar sun is not able to warm the earth well enough, so the snowdrifts continue to lie for a very long time. The average temperature ranges from −2 to +2°С. During this period, the sun stays above the horizon longer and longer, and less precipitation is recorded than in previous months.

Teriberka in winter

Winter and autumn are my favorite periods in the North. At this time, it becomes colder, the midges disappear, the polar night sets in, and the sky is sometimes painted in incredible shades of the northern lights. The North itself tests a person's fortitude, which is why winter is its true season. However, as I wrote earlier, the temperature here does not drop to critical levels; winter is a great time to visit Teriberka.

By the way, foreign tourists, in particular from China, regularly come to Teriberka (especially in winter). Some of them speak English well, so this is a unique opportunity to find friends from other countries, because they often need help buying tickets at the bus station or checking into a hostel.

Teriberka - weather by month

Clue:

Teriberka - weather by month

Districts. Where is the best place to live?

In preparation for the trip, in addition to transport, I was forced to carefully look for accommodation. There weren't very many options. If we talk about residential areas, there are only two of them: Teriberka itself and Lodeynoye. The choice depends on personal preferences and the amount you have available. From Lodeynoye it is easier to get to the ocean coast and waterfall, and Teriberka will be a convenient place to live for those who came here specifically for its sake.

The map below shows only three places where you can find shelter. In reality, there are still some options. By the way, on the map the village of Lodeynoye is called Teriberka, and Teriberka itself is located a little to the south, right behind the bridge. Because of this display, many people often confuse villages with each other.

IMPORTANT: Places in all rooms are usually booked several months in advance. Therefore, if you set out to visit the north, you should book beds in advance (you can do this, for example, on).

Lodeynoye

So, in Lodeynoye there is the “Hold the Crab” hostel and the “45th Pier” recreation center.

Hostel “Hold the Crab”

I lived in a hostel in January, when the cost of a bed was still 750 rubles per night. We say “hostel” out loud, but in reality we mean an ordinary two-room apartment (one walk-through room, one isolated room) in a four-story building. The layout here is standard for a Khrushchev building. There are three bunk beds in the walk-through room, and two more in the isolated room. The conditions themselves in terms of cleanliness, comfort and convenience leave much to be desired: the light in the bathroom does not work well, half of the stove does not function, it is quite difficult to wash normally in the bathroom (water flows into the cracks and drowns the neighbors below), Wi-Fi is quite lousy, they do not provide There are no towels, a dirty floor, and the smell of sewage from the entrance cannot be compared with anything. However, despite all these disadvantages, a homely environment and friendly company will make your stay very comfortable (as it happened to me).

Here you can fully immerse yourself in the atmosphere of the north, so I personally forgave all the mistakes of the hostel owners. In February, the price per night increased from 750 to 1000 rubles, which seemed to me unjustified for this type of accommodation and level of comfort. For example, a few days before Teriberka I lived in Kirovsk (another equally popular city on the Kola Peninsula), so the cost of a bed there was 300 rubles.

One of the advantages is the excellent location - the bus stops in front of the house, it takes 15 minutes to walk from the hostel to the ocean, and 25 minutes to the waterfall. In addition, grocery stores are located in the neighboring houses. Teriberka itself can be easily reached on foot in about 30 minutes. In mid-February, all places for April are already taken, but in March you can still find accommodation.

Recreation center "45th berth"

The recreation center “45th Pier” is located on the next street (there are only two streets in the entire village). This is no longer an ordinary apartment, but a real base with 14 rooms of different capacities. There is Wi-Fi, parking, heating, everything you need for cooking and relaxing. The most budget accommodation option for February is a place in a room for 6 people (900 rubles).

It’s difficult to say about the comfort and quality of life at the base without personal experience, and there weren’t many reviews. In general, they complain about poor heating, a shared toilet and bath for the entire complex, poor Wi-Fi and a lack of bathroom amenities. The advantages include an excellent view from the window of the bay and rocks, the opportunity to order fresh pastries and rent a snowmobile for a reasonable fee. The distance to the ocean, waterfall and Teriberka remains approximately the same.

The Booking map shows the following location of the Base:

However, in reality it is located rather on the edge of the village (the exact location is marked with an arrow):

Teriberka

Camping "Teriberskiy Bereg"

In Teriberka, Booking offers only one accommodation option - at the Teribersky Bereg camping site, located right on the shore of the Barents Sea. This is a full-fledged base, with a restaurant, cozy 4-bed houses, all amenities and breakfast included in the price. Judging by Booking, a night here costs 7,200 rubles, but in the official Vkontakte group a different price for accommodation is indicated - 1,800 per person.

In any case, the service is quite expensive, but camping is still in demand. The local restaurant offers its visitors northern cuisine at fairly high prices. One of my friends decided to visit the northernmost restaurant in the country and warm up with soup, but lost his appetite when he saw bread and butter for 70 rubles, and soup for 500 rubles.

The hefty price for rooms and meals is justified by European beauty and comfort, according to numerous photographs that can easily be found on the Internet. You can still make reservations now even for March. On the map below, Booking shows the location of the campsite.

In fact, the designation on the map is not entirely accurate, the complex is located on the shore, it can be seen in the photo below (red houses in the background).

Mini-hotel "Ter"

In addition to elite camping accommodation, Teriberka can also offer accommodation in the Terya mini-hotel. It is located near the bus stop at the address: st. Kolkhoznaya 19 a. I only found out about this place upon arrival. The cost of accommodation here starts from 2900 rubles. per day in a double room.

Grocery stores are within walking distance, the sandy beach is a 5-minute walk away. The hotel administrator said that for the next month (January - February) all rooms are occupied, and it is better to contact us in advance. The fact is that various artists and writers often come to them, and the hotel is in demand among ordinary vacationers.

In addition to the options described, there are also offers for daily rental apartments. You can search for options on social networks (for example, in thematic groups on VKontakte). With a regular search in Yandex or Google, finding an apartment can be more difficult.

What are the prices for holidays?

Having learned that I could get to Teriberka on my own, by bus, I stopped looking for tours and special group complexes. Due to the large flow of tourists, including foreign groups, many organizers of complex recreation, travel, and excursion trips have appeared in the North.

The list of such services may include:

sea fishing(at the “Hold the Crab” hostel there is an option for 12,000 rubles, and “Teribersky Bereg” offers a boat trip or fishing on a motor boat for 4,000 rubles);
snowmobiling(rent from 2,000 rubles per hour);
excursions(Hostel “Hold the Crab” can arrange an excursion from Murmansk to Teriberka for 10,800 rubles);
ATV rides(from 4,000 rub.);
transfer from Murmansk and back;
hiking, etc.

Prices vary depending on the organizer and comfort level.

Hiking with a backpack along the coast of the Arctic Ocean - 11,500 rubles;
casting on a snowmobile to the coast - 17,000 rubles;
two-day group tour with fishing, sightseeing, lunch and overnight stay for 20,000 rubles.

Tours usually start from Murmansk, with full excursion support.

The Teribersky Bereg camping restaurant offers three meals a day for 2,000 rubles per person per day, but it is unknown whether this offer is valid for everyone or only for their guests. In general, you will no longer find other restaurants or cafes in Teriberka and Lodeyny.

As for saving, you should proceed from your own preferences. Personally, I didn’t need a snowmobile to move around the villages and surrounding areas. Everything there is within walking distance, and you can explore the area and the main points of interest on your own, without the help of a guide. However, if you are drawn to fishing, then it will be more profitable to turn to full-fledged package offers, with accommodation and meals.

Main attractions. What to see

Teriberka is not a place full of attractions or entertainment programs. Some people come here to see the village itself, which became especially famous after the release of the film “Leviathan”, others want to see the northern lights, and others are interested in northern fishing. The attractions here include literally everything - from natural phenomena to traces of human impact.

Top 4

Perhaps, if we try to abstract from the overwhelming feeling of freedom and identify specific landmarks, then I am inclined to the following list:

Perhaps, all these attractions can be visited in 1 day, but to enjoy them to the fullest, probably not even a lifetime is enough.

What to see in 1 day

Technically, all of the listed attractions can be explored in one day, especially if you rent a snowmobile or ATV. However, I would recommend walking the entire route, allowing yourself to immerse yourself in the atmosphere of the North as fully as possible.

Route from Lodeynoye

8:30 - independent breakfast in the hostel or at the base.
9:00 - departure from Lodeynoye to the village of Teriberka. The journey will take approximately 30 minutes. Along the way you can see fishing piers, abandoned ships, rocky shores.
9:30 - We go across the bridge to Teriberka and immediately go down to the sandy beach to the ships and old fishermen’s houses. We go for a walk along the coast. Here you can see many birds gracefully diving into the water for fish. A leisurely walk along the shore to the end of the village will take about an hour and a half.
11:00 - we leave the beach and go into the village itself. Here you can walk around the neighborhood, look at the houses, the former school, and find the old grocery store sign from Leviathan. You can set aside an hour for a walk around Teriberka. Moving towards the bridge (exit from Teriberka), you can stop by the Teribersky Bereg restaurant or visit the nearest grocery store.
12:00 - lunch at a restaurant or a quick snack from a store. You can allocate half an hour for this.
12:30 - we leave Teriberka back to Lodeynoye. The journey will take 30 minutes.
13:00 - exit from Lodeynoye to the coast, to the waterfall (to the north). The walk to the waterfall takes about 30 minutes. The road runs through hills, rocks and lakes.
13:30 - we admire the waterfall, we go further along the hills to the battery. It will take about 20 minutes.
13:50 - we look at the battery, admire the views and return the same way back towards the waterfall. On the way we stop and pay attention to the surrounding landscape.
14:15 - from the waterfall you can slide down the hills in all directions, and also go down to the pebble beach. A walk along the beaches and hills will take about two hours. And if you want to enjoy the sound of the ocean and get a better look at coastal life, then I advise you not to rush anywhere and spend all three hours.
17:30 - approximate time of return to Lodeynoye.

Route from Teriberka

The route from Teriberka is fundamentally different only in what you want to see first. You can go first to the ocean, and on the way back take a closer look at Teriberka, or devote the whole morning to the village, and only then go to the waterfall. The second option will be a little more difficult, because after the ocean you will undoubtedly want to lie down to rest!

Food. What to try

As for food and restaurants, I have already mentioned above the only local establishment. Only there, perhaps, you will be able to try Kamchatka crab and, possibly, fresh fish (however, the price will be appropriate). I didn’t treat myself to such luxury.

Self-catering

A grocery store worker said that in the fall fish can be bought from poachers right on the street. I haven’t met any fishermen myself, but they say that poaching is common here. Therefore, when coming to Teriberka, you have to be content with the assortment of the store, or go fishing - organized or “underground”.

By the way, local shops delight with their abundance - they have fresh baked goods, a variety of fruits, meat products and Cherry tomatoes! At the same time, prices for products are unlikely to differ much from the price list of a store in a big city.

Holidays

In the last few years, the New Life festival has been held in Teriberka in mid-August. This festive event with a loud name is aimed at attracting tourists, focusing public attention on both the difficulties of life in a remote village and environmental problems. The organizers of the event are driven by the desire to breathe new life into the semi-abandoned village of Teriberka.

A variety of people from all over the world come to the festival to take part in master classes, sports competitions, culinary competitions, volunteer, listen to music or communicate with other participants for free. For those who did not have time to rent housing, the organizers will set up a tent city where you can stay in your own tent. In 2016, the festival featured a Gastronomic program, where you could try dishes prepared exclusively from local products. There is no word yet about holding such a festival in 2017, but it’s worth checking out the information. If it takes place again in the future, I recommend visiting this holiday, where a large number of amazing, caring people gather.

Safety. What to watch out for

Being in the North, I experience a reverent sense of silence and calm. The rare locals are quite friendly. However, I would still like to ask all travelers to be extremely careful and careful. Sometimes, either on the Internet or among visitors, rumors appear about the appearance of a polar bear in those coastal regions. I even found a small column myself from 2015, which talked about a bear that came to Teriberka. They are found there extremely rarely; most likely, they even accidentally swim on ice floes, but caution and attentiveness never hurt.

I would also like to note that in winter ice forms on the rocks, which can be hidden by snow and pose a real threat to any person. I would not recommend approaching the edges of rocks, especially near a waterfall, or climbing rocks or hills on icy surfaces without special equipment. Personally, I have heard about broken spines, arms, legs and necks of travelers. Be careful!

Things to do

See the polar day/polar night. For lovers of picturesque views, I would suggest coming here during the polar day (summer) and polar night (winter), because for many this can really be an unusual phenomenon! However, do not assume that this region is completely dark in winter. During the polar night in Teriberka, the sun does not appear above the horizon, but daylight itself illuminates the sky for several hours. In summer, the sun does not go beyond the horizon, but there is still evening twilight.

Go on a hike. Multi-day hiking trips are organized mainly in the warm season, and in winter you can go on snowmobile trips. Those who don’t want to go anywhere at all can go out to sea to relax or fish, visit a bathhouse, or just sit on the sandy shore.

Go pick mushrooms or berries. In the fall, one of the entertainments can be picking berries and mushrooms, of which there is simply an incredible abundance in the tundra. Moreover, the mushrooms are always only good - the north feeds! Even in winter, I managed to find one frozen mushroom and a field of frozen berries in the hills - crowberries. By the way, have you ever tried cloudberries? That's where you'll find her!

In mid-January, I was not able to meet snowkiting enthusiasts, but there were plenty of tourists (on foot, on off-road vehicles or snowmobiles). I even saw two ships at sea from the shore, but their purpose remained unknown. The post-holiday period is usually quite quiet: for example, there was almost no one in the Kirov hostel and on the slopes; everyone left after the end of the holidays. But in Teriberka all the housing is occupied, and snowmobiles with happy foreigners are cutting along the trails.

What I mean is that Teriberka (or rather both villages) is a special place, filled with a certain reverence and tranquility. It attracts you and remains in your heart for a long time. There really is no need for all these luxurious restaurants, five-star hotels, and a full range of entertainment. In Teriberka, all this was unnecessary tinsel - a trip here is not planned for the sake of luxury comfort, but for the sake of the place itself, the silence and sincerity of the northern coast.

Extreme Sports

You can enjoy northern views in different ways. Some people prefer to leisurely contemplate the landscapes, while for others, relaxation is closely connected with sports.

Kitesurfing/snowkiting. Strong winds, the ocean and snowy expanses become a magnet for lovers of kitesurfing in the summer and snowkiting in the winter, and can you imagine what great pictures you can take? Judging by the reviews on the Internet, everyone who comes to board in the Teriberka area comes with their own equipment. I didn’t find any rental, school or club for these sports.

Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

I belong to that class of travelers who, instead of magnets and caps, bring stones from the coast and moss from the rocks. However, at a minimum, the administrators of the “Hold the Crab” hostel offer branded mugs with the hostel’s symbols or with an ocean print and the name “Teriberka”. Such a mug will cost from 600 rubles.

I dare to suggest that you can purchase a souvenir of this kind through other tourist complexes. But personally, I still consider impressions to be the main gift from the North.

How to get around the city

You can only move around Lodeynoye or Teriberka on foot. Between the two villages there is one minibus only for schoolchildren - it brings them to classes in Lodeynoye, and then takes them back to Teriberka. The distance between the villages is small, so the route is quite easy to walk.

Traveling around the villages and surrounding areas is much more interesting on your own, but if distances scare you, you can contact the administration of the tourist complex and rent a snowmobile or ATV.

Transport rental

If you are drawn to take a walk further north, then here you can rent a snowmobile, ATV, or ride an off-road vehicle along the coast. I did not find any information regarding special permits or documents. Most often, transport is offered in conjunction with a tour trip, that is, you pay for the tour (from RUB 10,0000) and ride with a driver to designated places. I have already mentioned such complexes above in the section on prices.

There is also the option of renting a snowmobile from 2000 rubles. an hour from the “Hold the Crab” hostel, and at an unknown cost, snowmobiles are offered from the “45th Pier” recreation center. There is also no information about documents or permits: most likely, the snowmobile is rented with a driver.

By contacting the hostel or hotel administrator, you can clarify the nuances of renting a snowmobile or ATV. But I remind you that in some cases it will be more profitable to buy a comprehensive tour from the holiday organizers, because it includes rest, travel, transport, and everything you need.

If you decide to go to Teriberka in winter in your car, then it is worth remembering the specificity of this place. During the cold season, the road is often covered with snow, so it is not only blocked by special services, but also becomes unsuitable for passenger vehicles. During the winter season, car drivers often get stuck on the road, and quite often there is no one to pull them out of a snowdrift for a long time. Therefore, when setting off, check the weather forecast, take with you cables, a can of gasoline, a shovel, warm shoes and clothes.

Teriberka - holidays with children

I have not met any tourists vacationing with children in Teriberka. Still, the coast of the Arctic Ocean is not the most suitable place for a family holiday with children in the classical sense. However, if you belong to the category of avid travelers with a child on your shoulders, then such a trip is quite feasible.

Of course, there are no special children's entertainment, any programs, playgrounds, etc. here. But children can find entertainment even in a snowdrift. I would go to Teriberka even with a child - to show him this region that is different from the rest of the world. However, it is worth remembering precautions: the piercing wind and icy water on the coasts can cause a cold in your baby. And the rocks and hills are covered with ice in the cold season.

How we went to the sea :)

Real summer has arrived in Moscow, everyone went south... And we went north - the Murmansk region, to study the Kola Peninsula. I remember well the last flight to Murmansk, especially the 25 degree frost with 100% humidity. And in the summer we were promised a polar day, and warmth... So, a polar day is much cooler than the St. Petersburg white nights. The sun shines around the clock (in the absence of clouds), and makes it difficult to fall asleep. The temperature turned out to be only +3 degrees...

On the first day, after renting a Nexia, we went to look at the Arctic Ocean. This is not the northernmost point of the country, but the most accessible in terms of obtaining permission (thanks angrymanz ) and accessibility by any transport...

The first mention of the Teriberka settlement dates back approximately to 1523. Eyewitnesses of those times already confirm the appearance of permanent Russian settlers. At the end of the 19th century, there was already a fairly developed settlement here: there was a church, a lighthouse, and a hydrometeorological station (the first on the Murmansk coast).

At the beginning of the 20th century, Teriberka had fairly developed cod and shark fisheries (mainly the Norwegians, who had their own trading post and store here), and there was a fairly active trade in cod. At the end of the 20s of the 20th century, the first collective farm was organized, which, in addition to fishing grounds, had its own dairy farm and reindeer herd.

The village of Teriberka achieved its greatest development after the end of the Great Patriotic War. In 1940-60, there were already two fishing collective farms, two dairy farms, a poultry farm, about 2,000 heads of deer, an American mink farm, two fish factories, workshops and warehouses of the Goslov White Sea base, ship repair workshops were working and developing at full capacity, Active construction of housing and social and cultural facilities was underway, there was a stadium, a House of Culture, clubs for ship repair shops and a fish factory, a pioneer club, two schools - an elementary school and an eight-year school, a boarding school for children from coastal villages, a hospital, a clinic, and an outpatient clinic.

The decline in the village began in the 60s, when the area was moved to Severomorsk, large-tonnage ships appeared, fleets went to the ocean, coastal fishing lost its importance, fish processing, due to the development of the fishing port and fish processing plant in the city of Murmansk, came to naught.
In the process of “enlargement,” the Murmanets collective farm was liquidated along with the fur farm, Goslov’s Belomorsk base disintegrated, the reindeer herd was transferred to the village of Lovozero, and the fish factory was liquidated, since large ships could not enter the river.

2. The drive is only 120 kilometers from Murmansk, the landscapes are too harsh...

3. Approximately halfway along the route, the asphalt ends and the primer begins.

4. The primer is much better than certain sections of the federal highway M-18 (St. Petersburg-Mmk). Cold...

5. We pass the checkpoint: they check permits and passports. The soldiers recommend being more careful, they talk about bandits...

6. Shop...

7. The village is divided into two parts - Teriberka (350 inhabitants) and Lodeynoye (about 1000 inhabitants).

8. The indoor market... was...

9. And they still live here...

10. There is no one here anymore...

11. There are stones all around and almost no vegetation...

12. There is no place to engage in agriculture, only fishing...

13. As I already said, coastal fishing has become irrelevant...

14. There was life here...

15. But here she is still there...

16. View of Lodeynoye.

Panorama. View of Teriberka.

17. Sometimes large ships sail...

19. Stones, water... Cold...

20. Stones...

21. There in the distance, beyond the horizon, is the North Pole. Why not the end of the world?

22. Hurray, we are at the ends of the earth!

24. You can see a waterfall...

25. And again the rocks...

26. Local residents sometimes come here to sit and think about life...

27. Great texture...

Freezing from the sudden climate change, we went to Murmansk. To be continued...

Teriberka is a village in the Kola district of the Murmansk region on the banks of the river of the same name. The center of the rural settlement of the same name.

The first mention of Teriberka dates back to 1608. By that time, a Russian seasonal settlement of fishing industry - a camp - had appeared here. Since the 70s In the 19th century, the resettlement of permanent residents (Russian colonists) to the Teriberka settlement began. At the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. it was already a significant settlement: there were two churches with a clergy, a lighthouse, and a hydrometeorological station (the first on the Murmansk coast).

Even earlier, the Great Petrovskaya Expedition worked here, as evidenced by the geographical names of these places: Cape Deploransky, Zavalishina Bay and others.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Teriberka had fairly developed cod and shark fisheries (mainly the Norwegians, who had their own trading post and store here), and there was a fairly active trade in cod. At the end of the 1920s, the first collective farm was organized, which, in addition to fishing grounds, had its own dairy farm and reindeer herd. In 1938, Teriberka received the status of a workers' village.

Before the Great Patriotic War, for their labor achievements, MTV workers and collective farm fishermen were several times honored to be sent to VDNKh in Moscow, and were awarded government awards and VDNKh diplomas. Around the same time, the construction of ship repair shops began in the village of Lodeyn.

The village of Teriberka achieved its greatest development after the end of the Great Patriotic War. In 1940-60, there were already two fishing collective farms, two dairy farms, a poultry farm, about 2,000 heads of deer, an American mink farm, two fish factories, workshops and warehouses of the Goslov White Sea base, ship repair workshops were working and developing at full capacity, Active construction of housing and social and cultural facilities was underway, there was a stadium, a House of Culture, clubs for ship repair shops and a fish factory, a pioneer club, two schools - an elementary school and an eight-year school, a boarding school for children from coastal villages, a hospital, a clinic, and an outpatient clinic.

Teriberka was a regional center and developed and grew quite quickly. The decline in the village began in the 1960s, when the area was moved to Severomorsk, large-tonnage ships appeared, fleets went to the ocean, coastal fishing lost its importance, fish processing, due to the development of a fishing port and fish processing plant in the city of Murmansk, came to naught.

In the process of “enlargement,” the Murmanets collective farm was liquidated along with the fur farm, Goslov’s Belomorsk base disintegrated, the reindeer herd was transferred to the village of Lovozero, and the fish factory was liquidated, since large ships could not enter the river.

In the 1980s, during the construction of the Teriber hydroelectric power station, the salmon herd was barbarously destroyed. In 1997, the town of Teriberka was transformed into a village.

former regional center

348 inhabitants

Wiki: en:Teriberk ru:Teriberka (village)

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