- (eng. dandy). A man who always dresses in fashion and taste, is of noble birth and has a sufficient income; dandy, social dandy. Dictionary of foreign words included in the Russian language. Chudinov A.N., 1910. DANDY English. dandy.… … Dictionary of foreign words of the Russian language
dandy- DANDY, DANDY neskl., m. dandy, English. dandy. Dandy. An exquisitely fashionably dressed socialite, a dandy, a dandy (in modern usage, usually ironically). BAS 2. The appearance of the word fashionable, which entered Russian literary usage in the 20-30s of the 19th century... ... Historical Dictionary of Gallicisms of the Russian Language
Dandy- a dandy of high society, a fashionable dandy. Dandyism properties, character Dandy. Wed. "A! old friend! we said to each other, returning home from our amphitryon, you have obviously deteriorated and are falling into dandyism, incompatible with your years... Michelson's Large Explanatory and Phraseological Dictionary (original spelling)
dandy- Cm … Synonym dictionary
Dandy- [self-names dandy, derma (zarma)] nationality with a total number of 1260 thousand people. Main countries of settlement: Niger 1100 thousand people, Benin 100 thousand people. Other countries of settlement: Nigeria 60 thousand people. Dandy language, zarma (dirma). Religious... ... Illustrated Encyclopedic Dictionary
DANDY- [de], uncl., husband. (English: dandy). In a bourgeois noble society (originally in England) a sophisticated socialite, a trendsetter. “Dressed like a London dandy.” Pushkin. Ushakov's explanatory dictionary. D.N. Ushakov. 1935 1940 ... Ushakov's Explanatory Dictionary
DANDY- (English dandy) an elegantly dressed socialite; dandy, dandy... Big Encyclopedic Dictionary
DANDY- [de], uncl., husband. (obsolete). Dapper, dandy. Ozhegov's explanatory dictionary. S.I. Ozhegov, N.Yu. Shvedova. 1949 1992 … Ozhegov's Explanatory Dictionary
DANDY- male, uncl., English fashionable dandy, smart, clean, fashionable, dandy, lion, gogol; dandy of the big world. Dahl's Explanatory Dictionary. IN AND. Dahl. 1863 1866 … Dahl's Explanatory Dictionary
dandy- dandy. Pronounced [dandy]... Dictionary of difficulties of pronunciation and stress in modern Russian language
Dandy- The style of this article is non-encyclopedic or violates the norms of the Russian language. The article should be corrected according to the stylistic rules of Wikipedia... Wikipedia
Books
- Dandy. Fashion. Literature. Lifestyle, Olga Borisovna Weinstein. The word “dandy” still retains an inexplicable connotation of mysterious charm, and the dandies themselves are seen by us as eccentric aesthetes, creators of brilliant quirks. But who can be called modern... Buy for 1376 UAH (Ukraine only)
- Dandy: fashion, literature, lifestyle, Olga Borisovna Weinstein. The word “dandy” still retains an inexplicable connotation of mysterious charm, and the dandies themselves are seen by us as eccentric aesthetes, creators of brilliant quirks. But who can be called modern...
A luxurious life, a little spoiled, internally contradictory, exquisitely eccentric. These epithets can probably be used to define the fashion trend of the early 19th century called dandyism.
Who is a dandy?
The heyday of dandyism occurred at the end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th centuries. England is considered the birthplace of this cultural movement. A dandy is not just a fashionista who knows how to dress beautifully, it is something mysterious, incomprehensible, unsolved. This is a game in which many bright minds of that time were involved:
- George Brummell is a trendsetter of dandyism and a character in works, feature films, plays and treatises.
- Oscar Wilde was a London-based philosopher, writer, esthete and poet.
- George Gordon Byron or simply Lord Byron is an English poet who praised joyless selfishness.
- Aubrey Vincent Beardsley is a British artist, poet and esthete.
- Pushkin Alexander Sergeevich is the founder of the literary Russian language, poet, historian, critic and publicist.
- Mikhail Yurievich Lermontov is a Russian playwright, poet and artist.
- Charles Baudelaire - French founder of decadence, poet, essayist, critic.
- Sergei Pavlovich Diaghilev is a ballet producer and theater figure.
But it was George Brummel who is considered the arbiter, the legislator, the commander, called the “Prime Minister of Grace”, to whom all the followers of this phenomenon were equal.
Dandyism itself develops its own special disdainful rules of behavior in society, a life position of superiority over others and a unique style of clothing that combines impeccable taste and a somewhat spontaneous appearance.
Three components of dandyism
Dandy is a socialite, an artist, a snob, an intellectual and a fashion leader. It is not enough to simply dress fashionably, although a tailcoat cut to perfect patterns, curled curls, and impeccably fresh shirts, scarves and socks are required. An adept of dandyism must be cool and elegant, graceful and ironic, his motto is three notorious rules:
- not to be surprised at anything;
- keeping a cool head and being overwhelmed by unpredictability;
- leave on time, having made an impression.
Dandy portrait
Who is a dandy? What should he look like? British critic and essayist William Hazlitt, in his 1821 work On the look of a gentleman, gives a fairly comprehensive definition of the physical appearance of a dandy, implying that a gentleman's body is his instrument, the use of which must be effortless and virtuosic. All movements are refined, but free, and completely subordinate to the will of the fashionista, who controls him with an impassive look. According to Hazlitt, a dandy is a more refined version of a gentleman, characterized by precision of movement and the brilliance of showy manners. For a true dandy, it is important not only to dress elegantly, but also to be able to present oneself gallantly and with enthusiasm.
Dandy: history and modernity
There have been many fashionistas in history. All of them were united by a passion for fashion and something else, something ephemeral, elusive.
The first famous fashionista of antiquity can be considered Alcabiades of Athens, whose name was mentioned by Lord Byron, considering him the most charming hero of antiquity. Baudelaire called the Greek commander and orator the forerunner of dandyism, and Arsene Housset compared Alcibiades, a lover of orgies, with the insatiable seducer Don Juan. The ancient Greek hero was distinguished by his magical beauty, captivating contemporaries of both sexes. The name Alcibiades has become a brand of androgynous style in modern fashion.
The name of Alcibiades is also mentioned in his writings by Socrates’ student, the ancient philosopher Plato, who describes one episode of a table conversation between the public’s favorite and those present. Alcibiades told others in detail the story of the failure of his love advances to Socrates, who rejected his beauty and blooming youth, and laughed at him. Only a person with amazing self-control and self-confidence can tell strangers about his own failure.
The definition of “what is a dandy” in the modern world remains the same as in the time of Alcibiades:
- self-confident, consciously going into conflict;
- a judge of style whose amendments are not discussed but accepted as truth, even if they are rather caustic;
- a welcome visitor to any salon, club, banquet - everywhere.
The environment of modern parties, implying androgynous appearance, bisexuality in erotic relationships, strongly resembles in its spirit ancient times, the times of the birth of dandyism.
Dandy charter
What makes a sophisticated fashionista? What is the charter and what does dandy mean?
Dandyism is the cause of financial collapse
If you trace the life history of the most famous dandies of the early 19th century, you can see a certain pattern. Many fashionistas who fall under the meaning of the word dandy ended their lives in poverty and disease.
- George Brian Brummel - died in a mental hospital as a pauper.
- Oscar Wilde - died in exile, in humiliating poverty, suffering from meningitis, speechless.
- Charles-Pierre Baudelaire - died in a mental hospital, diagnosed with syphilis.
- George Gordon Byron - died of fever in Greece.
It is quite possible that the indifference to wealth prescribed by the dandy code was the cause of the bankruptcy of many famous dandies.
Dandy style in clothes
Appearance gives the clearest idea of what a dandy is. A fashionista's clothes should be modest only at first glance. The impeccable cut of the suit, providing freedom of movement, must be distinguished by grace and elegance. Bright flashy colors have been forced out of fashion. The tone of the suit is now restrained, calm - brown, sulfur or green. Jewelry: tie, pin, watch and boutonniere - which are allowed to be bright. Slight carelessness in tying a tie was achieved by long hours of practice in front of the mirror. It was considered bad manners to wear a new suit. He was given to a servant for a while to give a casual look. Gloves, shirts, scarves and socks were changed several times a day.
Conclusion
Today, the concept of dandyism has been greatly transformed and does not provide a clear image of its original meaning. But the game goes on! Modern dandies are forming a new ephemeral phenomenon of slipping beauty.
How dandy London is dressed...
Since childhood, we know that Pushkin's Eugene Onegin not only read Adam Smith and thought about the beauty of his nails, but was also dressed like a real dandy. Who are they, these dandies, who were imitated not only in snowy St. Petersburg, but throughout Europe? Why is this word still synonymous with male elegance? In order to find out, let's move to England at the end of the 18th century - it was then that London became the true capital of fashion.
Yes, by the way, you may have a natural question: “Where did this word come from - dandy?” It turns out that no one can give an exact answer. There is an opinion that it is of French origin - from ‘dandin’ (a small bell, that is, a windbag, a scoundrel). Supporters of another version refer us to the Scottish ‘jack-a-dandy’ (literally, “handsome boy”).
So, throughout the entire 18th century, the English restrained style was contrasted with French pretentiousness, however, Versailles still remained the main supplier of the latest fashions.
Strange as it may sound, the main reason for the rise of the British style was... the Great French Revolution. However, it’s not so strange - when guillotined heads are flying around the country, who would think of making hats? So France passed the baton to its eternal rival - England.
Y. Lotman writes: “Originating in England, dandyism included a national opposition to French fashions, which caused violent indignation among English patriots at the end of the 18th century.” It’s pompous in Soviet style, but it’s correct!
From the same Lotman we read: “It (dandyism) was oriented towards extravagance of behavior and the romantic cult of individualism.” Well, extravagance has always been a virtue of a true Briton, especially in the 18th century! Not the least role in the development of dandyism was played by the Prince of Wales (later King George IV), a hedonist, libertine and, at the same time, a man with a keen sense of poetry and painting.
As the capital of world fashion, England is somewhat lost against the backdrop of such famous couturier storehouses as France or Italy. It is difficult to say what is the reason for this imbalance. However, now there are more and more English fashion designers, and most importantly, it was in Foggy Albion that a revolution took place, radically changing the vector of development of men's clothing.
Like any revolution, this one consisted of many factors and prerequisites, but it was carried out by one person, who became a role model for many people for a whole century to come. His name was George Brian Brummel(1778 - 1840). He was of absolutely humble origin: his grandfather was a simple footman, who, nevertheless, managed to accumulate quite a decent fortune and, thanks to the necessary acquaintances, arranged for his son William a good position - as secretary to Lord North, a famous politician of that time. In this position, William Brummel achieved significant success, became an influential man, and could already afford to send his two sons - William and George - to Eton, where they studied together with the scions of noble aristocratic families. After graduating from Eton, George Brummel studied briefly at Oxford and decided to go into military service - he became a cornet of the 10th Dragoons.
However, in the barracks he did not show much zeal, and after meeting the Prince of Wales, the future king George IV, who became his friend and patron, left the service altogether, starting the very career thanks to which he went down in history - the career of a dandy.
Even in college, Brummel was particularly meticulous in his personal hygiene, as well as in his clothing and ability to tie a scarf. Now he could devote much more time to himself and greatly surprised his contemporaries with his habits. Every morning he began with the toilet: he shaved thoroughly, performed ablution in a special basin, and then took a milk bath to improve the condition of his skin. In addition, washing my hair, manicuring - everything took about three hours. Then he dressed: snow-white linen, a carefully tailored tailcoat made of simple cloth, long narrow trousers, Hessian boots, no jewelry. All clothes, linen, and scarves must be spotlessly clean at any time of the day and changed several times a day - a rather expensive pleasure in times when every home did not have a tap with running water.
What surprised his contemporaries so much? Not a three-hour toilet with a milk bath, and not a colossal amount of underwear and shirts, although these habits certainly differed from generally accepted norms. To make it clearer, you need to understand what a man's suit looked like in the 18th century: “... he appeared at court balls in rich costumes: a pink silk camisole with buttons made of precious stones, five thousand metal sequins on the hat, shoes decorated with buckles five inches wide - the prince's own invention. Another time he wore a bottle-green silk camisole with dark red stripes, a vest made of silver fabric with embroidery, and the lapels of the camisole were made of the same fabric as the vest. The entire suit, including the pantaloons, was decorated with sequins and embroidery, the epaulettes and the sword were trimmed with diamonds” - such outfits were sported by the future King George IV. The eye-catching outfits were complemented by a lush powdered wig, as well as makeup and front sights. Of course, such toilets were also far from generally accepted, and in England, in principle, a more restrained style prevailed compared to the continent. But nevertheless, the main features are clear: men's clothing, in principle, did not exclude a rich color palette, various decorations and decorative elements - from lace on the cuffs of a shirt to gold and silver braid along the hem of a frock coat.
George Brummel, with his delicate taste, did not like such bright outfits at all, and he introduced the rules of a new style of clothing:
First: an impeccably clean body (no decorative cosmetics, perfume or powdered wigs) and fresh underwear.
Second: an impeccably tailored tailcoat made of plain cloth (light for daytime, dark for evening outings).
Third: carefully selected and high-quality accessories: a carefully tied neckerchief (Brummel mastered this art perfectly and its knots were always the subject of envy and a mystery), a gold ring, a gold pocket watch chain and a snuff box. The latter was probably the only frankly luxurious item in Brummel’s closet: his collection included pieces in gold, silver, and with jewelry made of precious stones, but it only appeared for a few seconds. In general, the entire toilet followed the principle of “noticeable invisibility”. Such clothing served only as a frame, a background for a person. “When you see a well-dressed person, you shouldn’t say: “What a wonderful suit he has!” Let them rather say: “What a gentleman!” Brummel often repeated.
What initially amazed and surprised gradually became commonplace. Fashionistas, and then all other men, appreciated the simple and versatile suit that Brummel wore. Throughout the nineteenth century, although changing slightly in nuances, it remained unchanged in its essence. At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, interest in Brummell's biography was renewed, and a new generation of dandies appeared - aesthetes and decadents, among whom was, for example, Oscar Wilde.
Only slightly changing the shell and nuances, the principles laid down by Brummel have been preserved in our time. Until now, a classic men's suit is made from woolen fabric of discreet colors, the only color accent in clothing is a tie, tying which is also a special art, and the best decoration, an indicator of taste and status, remains traditional men's accessories: watches and cufflinks.
But Prince George himself would have remained in history as an immoral fat man, if not for George Brian Brummell, His Highness’s best friend and adviser. Brummell was flatteringly called the "Prime Minister of Elegance" and the "arbiter of fashion", and Byron himself argued that "There are three great men in the 19th century - Brummell, Napoleon and myself." Oh yes! In secular society, another nickname for Brummell was established - Handsome.
So, the handsome Brummell was exceptionally clean, had his hair cut quite short (by the standards of the 18th century) and surprised everyone with the impeccable cut of his clothes. Dandyism researcher O. Weinstein states: “Bramell’s program was strikingly close to modern principles of men’s wardrobe.”
It was he who introduced long men's trousers into fashion - before that, as you remember, men wore short culottes. Brummell spent a lot of time perfecting the knots of the neckerchief, carefully selected accessories, and several tailors sewed his gloves at once: one for the palm, the second for the thumb, the third for the other four...
Brummell's behavior and lifestyle became an example to follow. A real dandy was obliged to combine ease in communication with witty cynicism, and the ability to enliven any conversation with the ability to subtly parry.
And, of course, a follower of Brummell should not have shed tears over love mail! A true dandy was never surprised by anything, remained dispassionate and knew how to leave in time. In general, a quote from “Eugene Onegin” would be most appropriate here:
“...Without coercion in conversation
Touch everything lightly
With the learned air of an expert.
Remain silent in an important dispute
And make the ladies smile
Fire of unexpected epigrams."
The highest aerobatics for a dandy is to be able to break the rules within...the rules themselves, to be eccentric and strange, while remaining within the bounds of good manners... One of the differences between a dandy and a fashionista, a dandy, a dandy was that dandies did not follow fashion, they they created it themselves (of course, within the permissible limits!)
Handsome Brummell often behaved openly impudently, which, however, only increased his popularity. One day the Duke of Bedford asked his opinion about his new tailcoat. “Do you think this is called a tailcoat?” - Brummell asked cynically, and the ashamed Bedford went home to change clothes.
Brummell taught the awkward prince how to dress properly, take care of his skin and communicate with the ladies. The only thing Georg was unable to overcome was his love of long meals. A true dandy was obliged to monitor his waist size - excess weight was then a concern of men, not women. Lord Byron, for example, constantly went on various diets in order to fit into the declared image.
Brummell's story is one of rapid rise and equally rapid fall. The end of the great dandy's life was sad - prison, mental insanity and death at the age of 62. This happened on March 30, 1840. It was already a different era - it had been three years since the English throne had been occupied by a highly moral gossip named Victoria...
But Brummell’s ideas did not sink into oblivion - dandyism became a real philosophy of sophisticated fashionistas of all times and peoples. By the way, it was he who became the author of the first book about fashion - “Men’s and Women’s Suits.”
The main principles of the dandy style were simplicity and restraint. No perfume, the finest underwear, more shirts and most importantly - a beautiful vest and an elegant neckerchief. Throughout the 19th century, Brummell's ideas became a guide to action - the men's suit remained discreet, practical, but at the same time elegant. Men's elegance was now manifested in emphasized simplicity and restraint, in a well-groomed mustache and hairstyle.
As you know, the 19th century was the century of the rise of the bourgeoisie - nouveau riche moneybags tried by hook or by crook to outdo the aristocrats. And here again Brummell’s ideas came in handy - a true dandy is afraid not even of poverty, but of vulgarity. Remember?
“That autocratic fashion
In high London circle
It's called vulgar..."
The end of the 19th century is usually called the Belle Epoque - a time of sophisticated luxury, beautiful poetry and fancy vignettes. Belle Ėpoque dandyism is a kind of farewell to male sophistication - in the coming 20th century, men who know how to hold a weapon, and not a cane, will be valued.
Oscar Wilde, being himself a true dandy, loved this image - his Lord Goring, Lord Darlington, Lord Henry, etc - sophisticated followers of Brummell.
Irish poet, writer, essayist, one of the most famous playwrights of the late Victorian period, a bright celebrity of the time, a London dandy, later convicted of “obscene” (homosexual) behavior and, after two years in prison and correctional labor, left for France (where he lived under amended first and last name). He is best known for his sparkling plays, full of paradoxes, catchphrases and aphorisms, as well as the novel The Picture of Dorian Gray (1891).
Cynical, easy-going, not so much beautiful as possessing charm, they mock the weaknesses and prejudices of the crowd and, at the same time, actively take advantage of these weaknesses. And, of course, they dictate fashion and style.
Among the trendsetters of men's fashion 'Belle époque', the crowned bon vivant stands out - Edward VII, eldest son of Queen Victoria.
O. Weinstein writes: “Possessing excellent taste, he always knew how to dress appropriately and for the occasion, be it a boat trip or a car ride, a court ball or a hunt. It was Edward VII who unbuttoned the bottom button of his vest one afternoon, and after him all fashionistas began to do so. And another time, during the rain, he rolled up the edges of his trouser legs, after which the world learned about a new product - trouser cuffs...”
It must be said that beautiful France has given birth to many real dandies. At one time, the names of Robert de Motescue and Bonnie de Castellane were too well known for us to forget about them now.
Count Robert de Montesquiou - Fezensac was rich, noble, good-looking. Refined taste and love of life distinguished this man. Contemporaries called him “the master of refined scents” and “the professor of beauty.” Slender, even, one might say, thin, brunette with a chiseled profile, Montesquiou embodied the aesthetic ideal of his time.
De Montesquiou, like many of his contemporaries, adored the art of the Gallant Age and organized brilliant balls in the style of Louis XIV and Louis XV. The Count meticulously studied the lifestyle and the most insignificant details associated with the Golden Age of the French monarchy. In the heat of his fascination with the life of the Versailles celestials, the count even purchased an antique bathtub that once belonged to the favorite of Louis XIV - the Marquise de Montespan!
It may seem strange, but Robert's favorite color was... gray. Too much unflattering has been written about this color, however, Montesquiou could present the gray color in his outfits so exquisitely that no one even thought that this was the choice of a “gray nature.” He distinguished between steel-gray and mouse-gray, pearl-gray and gray-gray. He even had a special “gray room”. The count skillfully combined various shades of gray, for example, with lilac-pink.
Montesquiou, like most educated people of his time, was “a bit of a poet.” His ornate, pompous, vignette-like poems enjoyed some success in secular circles.
Who is a dandy? Characteristics of a dandy
At the end of the 18th century. France, which experienced a bloody revolution and was practically deprived of the old secular society, which for several centuries dictated the rules of good taste throughout Europe, gave way to prim England as a trendsetter.
Even the great Russian poet A.S. Pushkin mentioned the image of a dandy in his novel “Eugene Onegin”:
Here is my Onegin in freedom:
Haircut in the latest fashion,
How dandy London is dressed -
And finally saw the light.
This led to a change not only in costumes and hairstyles, but also in the requirements for representatives of the stronger half of humanity. At the peak of popularity is the image of the English dandy.
How should a man behave in order to be considered a trendsetter? Just following newfangled trends was clearly not enough. Of course, a new tailcoat, curled hair, and a well-groomed appearance were simply necessary, but the image of a dandy required much more, namely, certain behavior. A young man could be called a dandy only if his image was full of grace, and his conversation was ironic, if genuine composure could be traced in his manner, and elegance in his poses and gestures.
Dandy was a socialite, the king of fashionable salons and court balls, a conqueror of women's hearts. Of course, the image of a dandy was chosen mainly by young people, the so-called golden youth of the turn of the 18th-19th centuries, who had enough money to maintain a sleek and fashionable appearance.
The formation of this image was greatly influenced by the gallant French century, from which English fashionistas inherited both the love of expensive clothes and the desire to take care of their appearance, including polishing their nails, lining their eyebrows and creating an even complexion. But if for the 17th century. were characterized by pomp, an abundance of jewelry and luxurious handmade lace, then in the new century this was replaced by the elegant simplicity of a black tailcoat, a tall black top hat and an expensive, elegant cane.
A real dandy was considered not just a man who knew how to dress fashionably, but one who did it as if he did it absolutely spontaneously. Therefore, dandies often deliberately allowed footmen to wear out their suits so that the clothes had a slightly worn look.
The secular image, sophisticated and slightly feminine, at the same time required a fair amount of masculinity, since behind the socialite there was an endless string of victories over women’s hearts, and over rivals in numerous duels for any reason - just remember the duel between Lensky and Onegin from -for a trifling quarrel at a ball.
By the middle of the 19th century, when England became the most powerful power in the world, the image of the dandy finally gave way to the cult of gentlemanliness, which spread widely to other countries. After the Great French Revolution and Napoleon's conquests, isolated pockets of easy social life remain in Europe, but in general, the age of gallantry is becoming a thing of the past, giving way to the advancing class of the wealthy bourgeoisie, dictating its own standards of behavior. In the business sphere, a man manifests himself primarily as a reliable business partner: the ability to keep his word, defend his interests, defend his business and his family is valued.
A man is unconditionally recognized as the stronger sex, called upon to care for and protect the weaker sex.
The English phenomenon of dandyism was cleverly adopted by our compatriots, but, as usual, adapted in the Russian manner. How did domestic dandies differ from their Western colleagues?
Correct Pedigree
The "Prime Minister of Elegance" George Bremmel was not a nobleman by birth, but this did not prevent him from gaining access to the best houses in England. In Russia, on the contrary, almost all dandies belonged to the noble class. Can this be related to the fact that following fashion required a lot of free time and considerable financial expenses? If our bourgeoisie had everything in order with the latter, then, alas, problems arose with free time. Although history knows examples of Russian moneybags trying to become true dandies. Let us remember the merchant Gusyatnikov, whom his contemporaries called “the great Anglomaniac.”
Indifference to ranks
It is known that the Anglomaniac Gusyatnikov was obsessed with a fixed idea - to obtain nobility, and this can be considered excellent evidence that this slender gentleman in a black tailcoat and with an impeccably tied neckerchief was not a dandy in the truest sense of the word. A real dandy would never chase rank, seek privileges or increase status. Self-sufficiency is another feature of real dandies. What do we have? Our dandies tried by hook or by crook to prove that they were much more fashionable than their English colleagues. But if the latter easily deviated from fashionable canons, moreover, they could destroy yesterday’s image in a second for the sake of novelty of impressions, then Russian dandies would not agree to deviate from the prescribed rules for any price.
"Oddities"
“He’s like everyone else!” - an English dandy could hardly have heard a more terrible sentence. Their own characteristics, memorability, lack of vulgarity and triviality, the desire to “be different from the human herd” - all this was so characteristic of Western dandies. The ability to be “a little weird” was considered almost mandatory. Another thing is Russian dandies. As Yuri Lotman notes, the “French” ideal of fashionable behavior, which dominated at court, sharply rebelled against the manifestation of the characteristics of a particular individual. And if a London dandy could afford to throw out “something like that,” then the St. Petersburg fashionista was forced to always look back at the opinion of “Princess Marya Alekseevna” and various “Maxim Petrovichs.” However, Karamzin in “My Confession,” describing the adventures of his hero, tells how he, bending over in a servile kiss, bites the Pope’s leg or, while dancing with the German ladies, deliberately knocks them to the ground in the most obscene manner. These descriptions, however, are very far from reality...
"Fur Chips"
As Lotman writes, a suit is an external sign of dandyism, but not at all its essence. For a Russian dandy, a fashionable wardrobe item turned into a fetish, however, he did not even dare to think about adding any interesting “tricks” to his outfit. Only exact adherence to the created Western model! Remember “how a London dandy is dressed...”? True, Russian dandies allowed themselves expensive furs: “his beaver collar is silver with frosty dust...” - and this, perhaps, was the only “trick” of domestic dandies. However, as culturologist Olga Vainshtein correctly writes in her book “Dandy,” “the difference in style was associated with the need to keep warm in the winter.” Otherwise, a perfect suit, an elegant, not flashy and impeccably tied scarf, later a tie, and shoes polished to the point of insanity.
Thin waist
The ideal image of a dandy, distinguished by his slenderness, was transferred to Russian soil, and the idea of a handsome man with a narrow waist remained with us for several decades. One has only to remember Nicholas I, who in 1840 tightened his overgrown belly, preferring to endure physical suffering, but to comply with fashionable fads. Pushkin also kept an eye on his waist, proudly describing to his brother the “competition” with Eupraxia: “... our waists were found to be the same.<>“either I have the waist of a 15-year-old girl, or she has the waist of a 25-year-old man.” However, most Russian dandies did not have a passion for sports like their Western counterparts, some of whom spent their days between horse riding and boxing matches. Our dandies preferred leisurely afternoon promenades. They, of course, did not take turtles for walks, as the Parisian dandies did; the movements of our handsome men were already leisurely and measured.
Breguet watches
The image of the Russian dandy was complemented by a number of characteristic details. The first is flawless nails. Secondly, frequent changes of underwear, handkerchiefs, and gloves. Third - iconic accessories. For example, glasses that were inherited from the fashionistas of the 18th century, when looking closely at someone's face was considered a daring, if not indecent, act. Glasses, binoculars, lorgnette - exactly what the dandy needed so much! Do you remember how Pushkin’s Evgeniy, defying the light, “squints” and points his “double lorgnette” “at the beds of unfamiliar ladies”? Another such thing was Breguet. As Yuri Lotman notes in his comments to Onegin, the fashion for these watches was caused not only by their impeccable accuracy, but also by the fact that Breguet never created two identical models. Consequently, it was the watch that became that distinctive, special attribute.
Code of Conduct
Certain “concepts” permeated the entire life of a dandy. Thus, minimalism, which manifested itself in various guises, was most clearly manifested in speech, which was filled with short aphorisms and “words” that, having flown from the dandy’s tongue, were picked up and quoted. It’s hard not to remember the principle of “conspicuous invisibility,” when pomp and pretentious luxury disappeared from a man’s suit, and the only “noticeable” detail that dandies could afford was a pin for a scarf or tie. Well, there are three main rules that a true dandy followed: first, don’t be surprised by anything; second - maintaining dispassion, striking with surprise; the third is to leave as soon as the impression is achieved.
