Settlements of the Tazovsky district. Where is the Tazovsky Peninsula? Road Tazovsky

The village of Tazovsky is the regional center of the Tazovsky district of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug, located 200 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle. The area of the territory is 4,133.08 hectares. The distance to the regional center of Salekhard by water is 986 km, by air - 552 km, to the regional center of Tyumen, by water - 2755 km, by air - 1341 km. The nearest railway station in Korotchaevo is 230 km away.
As of January 1, 2014, the population of the village is 7,339 people.
The first mention of the territory that is part of the Tazovsky district today dates back to the 16th century, when the trade route to Mangazeya passed along the Taz River. Stories and legends were told about Golden Boiling Mangazeya. The region was rich in fish, furs, sturgeon, venison, sable and hazel grouse. All this was skillfully obtained by the Nenets - the indigenous inhabitants of the North, engaged in traditional crafts: hunting, reindeer herding and fishing.
The village of Tazovsky was founded in 1883 as a fishing post called Halmer-Sede (Sopka (Mountain) of the Dead - translated from Nenets). Once upon a time, on the hill where the village is now located, there was an old Nenets cemetery.
In 1883, the trading company of Funk, Murzein and Wardropper in an area called Halmer Sede founded a trading post - the first permanent settlement where they exchanged tea, sugar, matches and other goods for fish caught by local residents.
Since 1884, the Halmer-Sede trading post began fishing in the lower reaches of the Taz and Taz Bay. The fishing was organized by local Nenets, who annually harvested about one hundred tons of salted sturgeon and twenty tons of muksun.
In 1907, the Surgut merchants, the Plotnikov brothers, came to the trading post. They built warehouses, shops, residential buildings, and a bathhouse here. The revolution broke out and Soviet power came to the far North. In 1921, a village council was created, which took into its own hands the further arrangement of the lives of local residents, the work of the trading post, the supply of goods, the development of fishing, and the creation of the first partnerships and cooperatives.
In October 1931, the main base enterprise of the village of Halmer-Sede became a fish factory, which was equipped with three boats and four transit vessels. The population of the trading post was 2,560 people, among whom 14 were literate.
On January 1, 1949, by the Decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR, Khalmer-Sede was renamed the village of Tazovskoye, and on June 29, 1964, by the decision of the Tyumen Regional Executive Committee, the village was classified as a workers' settlement. The Tazovsky village council was abolished. The Tazovsky Council was created. The second name of the village comes from the river, which the Nenets called Tasu - the yellow, tundra river. Russian hydrographers called it more conveniently - Taz. Hence the name of the village Tazovsky. In the sixties, new types of economic activity appeared in Tazovsky related to subsoil exploration, development and exploitation of deposits.
On March 8, 1967, the CPSU Central Committee issued a resolution “On improving the work of rural and township Soviets of Working People’s Deputies.” According to the resolution, an executive committee was organized, elected from among the deputies. Over the years, the chairmen of the Executive Committee of the Tazovsky village were: T.M. Shumilova, V.D. Chabarin, V.T. Surikov, I.M. Korolev, A.S. Titov and others.
In January 1992, the Administration of the village of Tazovsky was formed, G.S. became the Head of the Administration. Kovalev, in 2003, by order of the Head of the Tazovsky district, S.N. was appointed. Semerikov. In 2005, as part of the local government reform, following the election results, N. A. Osikov was elected Head of the Tazovsky village, who also headed the local Administration for seven years. On November 2, 2012, the newly elected Head of the municipal formation of the village of Tazovsky, Vadim Anatolyevich Chetvertkov, took office, acting in accordance with the Charter of the municipal formation as the Head of the Administration of the village.
By decision of the Meeting of Deputies of the municipal formation of the Tazovsky village dated December 2, 2005 No. 2-1-6, the Charter of the municipal formation of the Tazovsky village was adopted, which determined the Day of the Tazovsky village to be February 1.
In order to create conditions for the sustainable development of the municipal formation of the Tazovsky village, as a district center, in 2009 the Assembly of Deputies of the municipal formation approved the General Plan, combined with the planning project for the municipal formation of the Tazovsky village, which takes into account a set of measures to ensure the optimization of the functional use of the territory of the village. The project was carried out in order to establish the boundaries of the territories included in the border of the settlement of the Tazovsky village.
On the territory of the district center there are enterprises and institutions that provide inter-settlement, economic, production and management connections.
The village houses a fish factory, which is the main processing enterprise in the eastern zone of the Yamal-Nenets Autonomous Okrug. The radius of the plant's service to fishing areas is 250 km to the north and 250 km to the south. The development of the Tazovsky village is associated with strengthening the processing base of the traditional industries of the region, as well as with the organization of a system of trading posts that ensures the socio-cultural development of the indigenous population of the region.
Thanks to the presence of the Tazovsky - Zapolyarnoye GNKM - Urengoy village - Korotchaevo station, the airport in Novy Urengoy and a cargo pier, the location of the Tazovsky village becomes favorable for the development of a transport and economic hub here, as the basis for increasing the economic level of development of the entire region.
The predicted development of gas fields discovered in the Tazovsky district will give new functions to the village. It can become a base point for the development of deposits on the Gydan Peninsula.
Tazovsky is constantly growing and developing. In recent years, the delivery of new completed social, industrial, as well as residential and public facilities, intended for comfortable housing and productive work for Taz residents, has become the norm.

Yes Yes! You can laugh, grin, make different jokes! I really had the pleasure of visiting a village with such a not entirely romantic name - Tazovsky. So what, you ask. Well, I went and went. You, probably, also travel to some villages, but you don’t devote entire articles to these trips, clogging up the Russian part of the Internet, which is already cluttered with all sorts of nonsense. But I still decided to describe my voyage. I believe that I have a completely valid reason and justification for this. I hope you will think my idea is good when you find out where this village is actually located and why it is interesting.

I guarantee 99% - until this moment you had no idea that such a village existed. Meet me. Tazovsky is located in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug. 300 kilometers north of Novy Urengoy beyond the Arctic Circle. It is the administrative center of the Tazovsky district of the same name, stretching 760 kilometers (!) almost from Urengoy to the islands in the Kara Sea.

Just for comparison - the Moscow region, which seems huge to us, is only 285 kilometers in size from North to South.

This is what Tazovsky looks like on the map:

Yamal Peninsula! YNAO! This is the very Far North, which everyone has heard a lot about, but not everyone has seen it with their own eyes. The distances here are completely different. For example, from Urengoy to Tazovskoye the highway is 230 kilometers. On this huge path you will come across only one settlement - the village of Novozapolyarny. No villages stuck practically on top of each other. Forest-tundra, then just tundra, huge lakes, swamps, larches, dwarf birches, here and there lichen instead of grass... Much here looks unusual.

I decided to write this report not at all out of some unhealthy boasting and, especially, not so that you would think about spending your next vacation in Tazovsky. This is a rather harsh region, which is not very suitable for recreation in the traditional sense of the word. But it is so unusual, so beyond the scope of everyday life, that, surprising myself, I would like to “lend you my eyes and ears” for a while, so that you too can see what a real polar village looks like.

If one of the local residents read this article, he would find it at least strange and would probably blame the author for mental illness. After all, residents of the village of Tazovsky and other similar settlements constantly live in those places that seem exotic to us. Everything that catches the eye of a resident of the middle zone is familiar to them.

Therefore, I immediately apologize to local comrades for some pomp and enthusiasm in the description. What can you do, a lot surprises us in your area. There are many things that amaze me. Some things are puzzling. This article is based on a review of these observations. If something seems wrong to you, I humbly ask you not to be offended, but to correct me in the comments.

Why is Tazovsky called Tazovsky

When I first heard this name, my first association, like probably yours, was an ordinary object that probably exists in every home. Taz!

True, I immediately dismissed the idea that the village became famous for its basins, like, for example, Semenov Zolotoy Khokhloma or something like that. It would be unthinkable to imagine that in the village there is a city-forming enterprise that produces basins known throughout the country. A kind of modern plant with all its inherent attributes: a design bureau, testing laboratories, a museum of finished products and a plaque of honor.

Heading here, I did not expect to meet a lot of shops where they sell a variety of products, ranging from ordinary small plastic basins, enamel and copper products, to the highest form of such products - gold toilets interspersed with yakhonts and other gems.

Most likely, the reason for this, frankly speaking, unpoetic name lies in something else.

And it's true. Tazovsky has been called this way since 1949. Before that, he bore the name Halmer-Sede, which translated from Nenets meant “mountain of the dead.” On the hill where the village now stands, there was an old Nenets cemetery.

Agree, living in a village with such a name would be somehow unhealthy. In 1949 the situation changed. The name of the river was taken as the basis for the new name. The village began to be called “Tazovsky” because it stands on the Taz River... Well, that’s it, the smiles started again. Meanwhile, there is nothing funny here. The name “Taz” comes from the Nenets “Tasu’yakha” - translated as “lower big river”.

How big is it? Most likely, you will be surprised that the little-known Taz River is one of the longest rivers in Russia. Its length is 1400 kilometers! It begins in the swamps near the bed of the Yenisei River and flows into the Kara Sea. The river is navigable. Its 798-kilometer section is part of the waterways of the Russian Federation.

Long road to Tazovsky

Yeah! It turned out to be a bit heavy even for me, who had driven and flown tens of thousands of kilometers over the past year.

From Nizhny Novgorod to Moscow on the Lastochka train (and he said never again!). Then Aeroexpress to Domodedovo. Then – flight to Tyumen. Overnight on a bench at the Tyumen airport (all rest rooms were occupied). The next morning - flight Tyumen - Novy Urengoy.

If the weather in Tyumen was still warm and sunny like summer, then soon after takeoff the ground was covered with a dense veil of clouds.

Only on approach was it possible to see the real tundra. Autumn has painted it in the brightest colors - yellow, red, green! Green larches against the background of yellow birch trees and red low bushes framed the lakes and swamps. Unfortunately, the weather was cloudy, so the picture turned out a little dim. In addition, I didn’t get a seat near the porthole, so I had to shoot at arm’s length.

When the plane's wheels touched the runway (in Novy Urengoy it is made of reinforced concrete slabs), it seemed to me that the worst was already behind us. Now you just need to get into the car and calmly drive to the place.

By the way, it’s good that now you can order a taxi directly from home. When I did this and they quoted me a price from N. Urengoy to Tazovsky at 2000 rubles, at first I was a little... how to say it. Overall I was surprised!

But at that moment, when the car finally entered the village, I was ready to give the driver a large amount. His work was like a small feat. For 6 hours we raced along the highway connecting these settlements.

Here in the North the distances are completely different. This is not central Russia, where settlements are almost stacked on top of each other. From Novy Urengoy to Tazovsky 330 kilometers. In principle - not so far. If the road were straight, like the Moscow Highway, then it would be possible to easily fly to the place in 3 hours.

But this is not the Moscow Highway. And the point here is not the quality of the asphalt surface. It just raises almost no complaints. It’s just that the road turned out to be terribly loopy... well, from the word “loop.” Now to the left, now to the right, now a hillock, now a depression. I immediately remembered trip to the village of Ruskeala in Karelia on the Marble Canyon. There's the same ambush there.

However, here in the tundra the roads have another nasty property. Sometimes they have local failures. I mean, not holes in the coating, but small sudden subsidence of the canvas.

If you drive at a speed of 110-130 kilometers per hour (that’s exactly how our driver was driving), then after hitting such a hole, the car first hits the asphalt with its muzzle and then takes off into the air. According to our driver, the landing is not always successful. Sometimes it happens on the side of the road or, best of all, right in the tundra.

We were lucky. The driver turned out to be from the village of Tazovsky. He constantly takes passengers to the airport and knows where to pull over. A sort of pilot of the local asphalt fairway. More than once I thought that if I myself drove the car along a treacherous road, I would very soon have to pull it out of the ditch.

The pictures along the way were more than unusual. I'm lucky! While everyone was hanging around the trunk during seating in the car, stuffing their suitcases, I took the front seat next to the driver. We managed to take a lot of interesting photographs.

Of course, it is quite difficult to take masterpiece photographs from a car flying at a speed of more than 100 kilometers per hour. Most of the gorgeous views turned out to be hopelessly blurred. Only some photographs can be shown without the risk of earning unflattering assessments from famous photographers. It is quite possible to get some idea of the local nature.

Let's look at some images and I'll explain them.

The forest-tundra in autumn is very, very beautiful. The yellow leaves of birch trees go well with the still green larches. They turn yellow and fly around later. A red low bush completes the picturesque view. And in the second picture light green moss appears. When I saw the tundra from above on approach, I thought it was snow. Actually it's moss.

Along the way, every now and then there were lakes, swamps, and rivers. If the weather had been sunny, the picture would have turned out much more beautiful. Alas, it soon began to rain. What can you do. North! This is not Türkiye or Greece.

As we moved, the trees began to thin out. If earlier we were surrounded by a real forest with thickets and thickets, then after 4-5 hours the movements of the trees became single, as if specially and quite rarely stuck in a random order on the tundra plain.

The shape of the trees was also unusual. Especially in larches. Some of them could even be mistaken for pillars: the branches are very short, as they say, “not one step from the trunk.” Probably, in this way the plants are saved from the large caps of snow that fall on the tops and paws in winter. By the way, some larches had a very bent top to the side. Probably, the wind did not have time to throw off the snow caps.

Over time, the trees completely disappeared. Only rare local islands remain. The soil cover also looked very unusual. From time to time there was green moss-lichen and low red bushes. Other bushes were yellow for autumn. Well, I already wrote about the combination of green larches and yellow birches. All this was incredibly beautiful!

Tree growth decreased as we moved north. I had seen such dwarf trees before when I was on a similar mission in Salekhard. But here we climbed even further north (by a whole degree!) and had the opportunity to see the real tundra with our own eyes, and not in a faded picture in a geography textbook. In autumn it is very beautiful. It looks like a solid green-yellow-red-gray carpet. If it were also the sun, you wouldn’t be able to take your eyes off the picture.

Looking ahead, I will say that I managed to go out for a walk in the tundra, and on the way back I persuaded the driver to make a couple of stops to take more decent photographs. We'll see them later.

Pontoon crossing over the Pur River

I definitely want to talk about this, because personally, the facts about the crossing plunged me into a state of shock. To tell the truth, the information looked so implausible that I even thought that my fellow travelers were playing a joke on me. But on the way back, I again asked the same questions to another driver and received similar answers. Then I looked on the Internet - it turned out that everything was true! And scary!

The crossing of the Pur River is located at the very beginning of the journey near old Urengoy and serves mainly for the delivery of goods to the fields.

First, I suggest you look at the photos of the crossing:

This is a summer option. The bridge is made of military pontoons. In theory, it should even withstand tanks. That's probably true. When we moved across the bridge behind a large excursion bus, the bridge beneath it sagged, but did not sink under water.

But on the way back, I personally saw how the bridge segments were completely submerged in water under a multi-ton truck. It seemed like the car was walking on water. And in general, this is such an unusual sight when the bridge seems to move in a wave, gradually falling into the water under the weight of traffic.

According to drivers, there were cases when cars actually sank. This happens especially often in the fall, when the bridge becomes terribly slippery. Well, you yourself understand that if the segments either sink under water or appear above the surface, where the temperature is sub-zero, the formation of ice is inevitable. It is useless to sprinkle the road. As the next heavy vehicle passes, a new layer of ice crust forms.

Both cars and trucks slid off the bridge. Not often, but it happened. Frankly, I would think twice before driving a car across a pontoon bridge in late autumn, especially while driving.

It is for safety reasons that the bridge is dismantled in the off-season. Then you can only cross to the other side on barges.

When a stable negative temperature is established, the construction of the ice bridge begins.

Second fact: there used to be another bridge here. It was owned by a private company and consisted of barges lined up one after another across the river. Unfortunately, over time this bridge was closed. There were many more cases of car flooding.

Fact number three: twice a day the pontoon bridge is raised to allow passing ships to pass. You understand, he doesn’t get divorced like... Here the bridge segments do not rise up. They are simply disconnected in the middle of the river and the tug, as it were, bends back part of the bridge.

The bridge is opened twice a day for approximately 1 hour each time. This must be kept in mind when ordering air tickets and taxis. If you get caught, you may miss your plane. Or by train, whatever you are going to take there.

But 1 hour is only the time it takes to raise the bridge. Keep in mind that during this period a considerable queue of cars forms on both sides of the river. Meanwhile, traffic on the bridge is one-way. That is, either there or back. According to the taxi driver, you can easily get stuck here for three hours!

In a word, it is better to plan your trip in advance so as not to waste time with nerves.

Finally, and this is a fact that just killed me on the spot, crossing the pontoon bridge is a toll. So what, you say. Many crossings are paid, so what’s wrong with that?

Do not hurry. First, let's look at how much pleasure results in.

The cheapest option is to walk across the bridge. It doesn't cost anything at all. True, trouble may await you along the way. If a heavy truck catches up with you or comes towards you, you can easily plunge along with the bridge to your knees, or even deeper! Of course, when the car passes, you can continue your journey on dry land, but on the other side you will have to pour the water out of your boots. It's true what they say, free cheese only comes in a mousetrap.

An ordinary car crosses the bridge for 120 rubles (2018 prices). Is it a lot or a little? Let's do the math. If you drive across this bridge “from work to work” every day, then in 20 working days you will travel in the amount of 2,400 rubles. Given local salaries, this is an amount that can be ignored.

Things are much worse if you have a 10-ton truck. To cross the pontoon bridge on it, you will have to pay 9,000 rubles (nine thousand).

And for a 20-ton truck – already 18,000!

But all these are pennies compared to the cost of ferrying an 80-ton vehicle. Don't try to guess! Prepare for a slight shock.
So, crossing an 80-ton tank truck across a pontoon bridge in the Urengoy area costs 680 thousand rubles.

How much-how much???!!!

Yes, everything is correct, there is no error - six hundred eighty thousand rubles!

I admit, at first I also did not believe the reality of this figure. I had to look on the Internet. Yes, that is right.

Agree, against this background, crossing a car looks like sheer nonsense. Of course, there are all sorts of benefits that somewhat soften the blow to your wallet. For example, if a driver has a mark in his passport indicating permanent registration in the Tazovsky district, then a passenger car can drive across the bridge for 70 rubles. An 80-ton machine will still pay a decent price - 270,000 rubles, but this is much less than if there were no benefits.

The most amazing thing is that crossing the ice crossing is also paid. That is, in order to drive across the ice from one shore to the other, some of the drivers also have to fork out money. Cars, however, are transported free of charge, trucks pay 5,000 rubles. regardless of weight.

Triumphal entry into the village of Tazovsky

Why triumphant? I admit, this word is used here with a considerable amount of sarcasm. I don’t know how the other passengers felt, but I must admit, I was exhausted by the road to the point of “I don’t want to.” My only desire was to quickly find a hotel and go to bed until tomorrow morning.

Almost a whole day of being awake took its toll. Sitting in the front seat, I periodically nodded off all the way, which greatly amused my fellow travelers. Due to drowsiness on the way to Tazovsky, I missed crossing the Arctic Circle. Let's look at a photo of the memorial sign on the way back.

Tazovsky greeted us with nasty autumn rain and twilight greyness. Industrial structures, gas pipelines, and construction equipment standing in puddles aggravated the picture. My fellow travelers - a young couple - became sadder and sadder. It turned out that they came here to work. That is, not for a couple of days, like myself, but for a long time.

The deeper we went into the village, the gloomier our fellow travelers became. Especially the lady. The young husband didn’t seem particularly enthusiastic either. I bet. It was he who encouraged his passion to go live and work in the North, citing romance and good salaries. I think he'll get what he deserves tonight.

If we had arrived in the village on a sunny day, everything would have been fine. Indeed, in clear weather, even old wooden barracks do not look so gloomy. But the weather was clearly unlucky. In the pouring rain, in the piercing wind at a temperature of +5 degrees, the landscape looked depressing. The first impression was not at all romantic. There is only one piece of advice here. If you seriously decide to indulge in northern romance, you just need to endure it and not run away to the “mainland” in the first two weeks. A person gets used to everything. I hope everything works out well for them.

Where to stay in Tazovsky? Hotels in Tazovsky village

Despite the small size of the village, there are three hotels here. The most fashionable of them is the Brusnika guest house. Single rooms here cost from 3,900 to 5,000 rubles. per day. They say this is the best memto, but I haven’t had the chance to experience all its delights personally. The budget didn’t allow it (or greed ruined it).

Next comes “Safe Haven.” At the time of my arrival, all single rooms were occupied, and I did not want to live with someone else in the same room. The cost of a single room was 4,300 rubles. Well, what did you think? This is the North!

The choice was made in favor of the Tazovchanka Hotel... Well, there you go! I knew it! The giggling started again. No seriousness! Well, yes! What do you think the hotel should have been called, located in the village of Tazovsky?

Tazovka! This is also the name given to the residents of the village. And the gentleman who lives here is called a Tazovite. This is how one imagines the beginning of the speech of some visiting deputy: “Dear Taz residents and guests of the city...”.

The hotel has different accommodation conditions. The most inexpensive option is a bed in a four-bed room. It costs 1200 rubles. per day. I got a room that, by some unimaginable irony of fate, had the status of “junior suite”. Price 3500 rub. per night. There wasn't much to choose from. Having paid for two nights at the cashier, I wandered off to occupy the living space.

What does a single junior suite look like in Tazovchanka?

I’m not some kind of movie star, so all the “presentations” that will be “thrown” further in the text are not “attacks” at all, but simply an ironic comparison of the harsh reality of a junior suite with its declared semi-high status. Personally, all this made me smile. Other people might have reacted more violently.

Let's start with the fact that the front door of the room was not locked from the inside. There was still a chance to lock the room from the outside. And not the first time. But the inner handle of the lock turned out to be broken. I had to spend the night almost “with the doors open.” A sort of “open night” in a hotel full of drunken, unbridled drillers. How do you feel about the prospect of getting into such a situation?

In fact, this is, of course, an exaggeration, a stereotype. There were indeed guests in the other rooms, but they behaved quite decently.

But for such a case I have one trick. I place a camera tripod in the hallway right in front of the door. If someone decides to enter the room at night in the dark, he will not notice it and will definitely stumble. The tripod will fall with a terrible crash.

Well, then the uninvited guest should take the trouble to get out as quickly as possible. For, awakened in the middle of the night by an unauthorized intrusion, the owner of the room, holding a leather officer’s belt with a large buckle in his hands, is unlikely to begin a dialogue with the words “welcome.”

As it turned out later, the measure turned out to be completely unnecessary. Moreover, residents of many houses do not have locks on the entrance doors and do not even always lock the doors of their apartments. I didn't come up with this myself. I am retelling what I heard from one local resident. Here you go! And I installed a tripod here.

The room has everything you need. TV, refrigerator, shower with boiler, kettle, wardrobe, chair, table, set of dishes, set of bed linen and towels.

The walls between the rooms are, of course, cardboard. But I was lucky again. There were no neighbors behind the wall. If they were, I would learn a lot of new things from the lives of “wonderful people.”

The price includes the use of a microwave (in the hall) and an iron. For other whims you would have to pay.

The next day: we look around Tazovsky in the light of day

The morning started with positive emotions. Looking out the window, I discovered that the weather was clear and sunny outside - just as ordered! But the forecast said cloudy with rain! Miracles!

On the way to the museum we managed to see a lot of unusual and interesting things. This is the time to start showing photos and giving explanations.

Let's start with the fact that Tazovsky is a village beyond the Arctic Circle. Summer and early autumn here are not very different from what we are used to seeing in central Russia. For example, when I first arrived in Salekhard, then the first shock was the flight attendant’s announcement on the plane that the temperature outside was +29 degrees! Thus, although here is the extreme north, everything around is not covered with deep snow all year round, as one might think. In early autumn, when I got to Tazovsky, the temperature was +3 degrees at night and +9 during the day.

The usual green grass for this time of year was everywhere. The leaves on the trees, however, have already turned yellow. A few more days and they will begin to fall off. And by the end of September, permanent snow cover can easily fall, which in the middle zone usually appears only in November.

The very first thing that turned out to be unusual was the pavement made of concrete slabs. Apparently, asphalt cannot withstand low temperatures. When a car drives along such a pavement, the sound is like a train running on rails. Knock-knock, knock-knock.

Wooden pavements raised above ground level. Imagine, to get to the porch of your house you have to walk along these boardwalks. But all this happens only in warm weather. When the snow falls, these sidewalks will not be visible. Sometimes there is so much snow that its level is compared to the porch.

Number two on the list of unusual things was the old wooden barracks. To tell the truth, after visiting Salekhard, a completely modern city, I did not expect to see such buildings beyond the Arctic Circle. I think it must be very cold there.

Some houses are clearly in need of demolition. Not in repair, but in demolition. For example, this two-story wooden building. Look, it is not vertical, but with an inclination of about 5-6 degrees. What is it like to walk from room to room, uphill and downhill? How do they play ball there? How do you pour a bath?

The reason for this situation is not only the old year of construction. The house simply began to sink into the thawing permafrost. According to local residents, winters are getting warmer and warmer every year. In previous years, frosts reached 56-60 degrees below zero. Can you imagine?

Now in winter the usual temperature is about minus 35 degrees. By the standards of central Russia, this is biting frost, or dog cold, as you prefer. And in Yamal it’s almost like a thaw.

And because of this warmth, especially in the summer, when the thermometer rises to 30 degrees, the multi-meter layer of permafrost, which previously thawed in the summer only from above, began to thaw deeper. As a result, those piles that coped with their job quite well several decades ago have ceased to be a reliable support. Houses began to sink in the truest sense of the word.

Just look at what's going on outside some of the houses! Yes, it’s a real swamp! Any owner of a private house in the middle zone, seeing the same disgrace under the walls of his home, would first faint (right into the swamp), and then start frantically poking his shaking fingers at his phone, calling specialists to urgently drain the territory.

In the Arctic, residents are not very worried about dampness under their feet and under their houses. Autumn will come soon, all this will freeze, and the problem will be solved by itself until next summer.

Please understand me correctly. I'm not saying that all houses in Tazovsky are like this. There are also quite decent, modern buildings. But we are talking about what “caught the eye.” So, buildings falling on their sides, wooden sidewalks, swamps under houses - this really looks unusual, although for the locals it is par for the course.

I would like to say just a few words about the features of construction technology in the Arctic. If someone decided to simply pour a strip foundation or put the house on a solid concrete slab, as is usually done, say, in the Moscow region, they would make a terrible mistake. The very next year such a structure would begin to tilt, the walls would begin to crack, and the glass in the windows would shatter into small pieces.

When the ground is full of water, you have to abandon the usual construction standards and use something more reliable. Piles for large structures are driven to depth before 30 meters. This is the height of a modern 9-story building! Then the pile field should simply “stand” for a couple of years. If it doesn’t “lead”, then you can build a new residential building, or a school, or a clinic.

So, if you come across such objects in polar villages, know: this is not an abandoned construction site. She's just waiting for her time:

There is also that exoticism that we all imagine when we mention the words North, Arctic.

Firstly, these are blue trailers on wheels. Now they are no longer used as permanent housing for the pioneers of the polar latitudes. But at the very beginning of the development of the Far North, it was precisely in such gullies that drillers, builders and other people of heroic professions lived.

I came across such trailers only once in Tazovsky, but that was enough to remind me of old Soviet photographs from the life of polar explorers.

Secondly, I had a chance to see the same trailers on stilts. Here they are no longer autonomous residential blocks, but stand on a common “frame” and together represent entire apartment buildings.

They look, frankly, a little outdated, but people still live in such buildings.

Of course, there is also modern, comfortable housing in Tazovsky. Otherwise, you might still think that there are just old, falling barracks here.

There is a modern clinic, a school, shopping centers... In a word, like in any city, there is a so-called “historical part” and more modern areas. But I decided to show both, rather than paint a ceremonial portrait of the village. After all, if we don’t show what is already outlived, gradually becoming a thing of the past, we will simply break the thread connecting the past with the present. But the past must also be remembered. As Valentin Pikul said, “History severely punishes those who forget history.”

People of the Arctic

Let's start with the fact that there is a certain number of residents who were born and raised in the village of Tazovsky or its environs. These are the indigenous population - the Nenets, and the Russians, descendants of the pioneers of the northern latitudes.

Everything is relatively clear with them. The idea “where you were born, you came in handy” fully explains their presence in these hard-to-reach places.

What is surprising and unusual for us is everyday life for them. So from the conversation I learned that a huge Nenets chum can be installed in just 15 minutes. And it’s not a whole team of our usual “pour it and do it” specialists who is working on this, but just one Nenets woman.

Did you get the point? A Nenets woman can put up a chum alone in 15 minutes! To be honest, I don't really see how this can be done. I think that if I were given such a task, I would put on a show that the local population would talk about to each other for a long, long time through word of mouth, rolling with laughter.

Why are you smiling so much? Can you do better? Let's try it right now. Take about fifteen poles 5-6 meters long and try to erect a Nenets tent in your yard. One that won't fall apart at the first whiff of wind. Then we'll laugh together :)

Many Nenets still live in tents and ride sledges. I think they are unlikely to exchange their usual life in the tundra for cozy city apartments. Or maybe they would have exchanged it... It's hard to say. To tell the truth, I would like to live in Tazovsky for at least a month to get into the spirit of these places, to become one of my own here as much as possible. Then the report would have been more objective.

How much do blue-collar workers get paid? Let's not discuss specific numbers and look into all the other people's pockets. The main thing is clear: it’s clearly worth coming here for good salaries.

I also mentioned earlier retirement. Now, you know, the situation has changed somewhat, but, nevertheless, the benefits are clearly obvious. For example, in a conversation with a fireman, I learned that his experience here lasts for about two years! Can you imagine?

Surely there are other tricks that lure people to these harsh lands. After all, if the wage conditions in Tazovsky were the same as, say, somewhere near Ryazan, then only the local population would remain in the North, and all the drillers, gas workers, as well as teachers, museum workers and sellers would flow back to Bolshaya land.

Well, maybe not all. After all, many have already become attached to these regions and are ready to pay extra just to stay. But most wouldn't last a month here.

At this point in my story, I would like to apologize in advance to those who were outraged by my reasoning about motives. Don't blame me, but that's how I saw the situation. If you have your own vision, I kindly ask you not to scold me with all sorts of unflattering words, but to express your view in a comment or in a letter. I will be very happy to add it to this text. You know yourself, one head is good, but ten is better :)

Walk through the autumn tundra

Have you ever walked on the tundra? I succeeded. I admit, looking at this endless plain covered with yellow-red-green plants, I somehow couldn’t believe that I was beyond the Arctic Circle.

Luckily for me, the weather was just perfect that day. From the very morning until evening the sky was clear, only far in the North, near the horizon, there was a dark ridge of clouds, a little like mountains. First we had to walk a little along the highway leading to Novy Urengoy. All attempts to descend to the surface of the tundra were unsuccessful. It turns out that the soil here is quite unstable. All swamps and lakes. Being in ordinary sneakers “with holes”, I was afraid to simply “scoop up”, or even “swim” :)

Finally, behind the helipad we found some kind of dirt road along which we managed to go deeper into the tundra for about a kilometer.

Needless to say, the place is very unusual. Not at all like our fields overgrown with grass. It is immediately obvious that the vegetation here has adapted to not protruding from under the snow cover in winter. Plants are low growing. Grass, small bushes. Colors are green, yellow, red and grey.

The completely flat landscape is diversified by small lakes. These are probably just lowlands that fill with water when the top layer of permafrost melts. I think that they are very shallow, but they are so huge in area!

What a sky this is! You have long seen a blue dome without a single cloud, not streaked up and down with traces of airplanes. Here, far from the airways, we were able to admire the clear sky, on which there is not a single object that the eye could cling to. Beautiful, unusual, fascinating!

See the real tundra not in a picture in a textbook, but with your own eyes. Stop on the dirt road, sit down and look carefully at the vegetation, take photographs for memory... No, despite all the difficulties, I do a great job! After all, nothing broadens your horizons like travel!

There was almost no wind that day, but, alas, we couldn’t enjoy the silence. To do this you need to go very far into the tundra. And here, every now and then, cars rushed along the concrete road, emitting a characteristic ringing sound when the wheels touched the slabs, not to mention the clatter of the wheels, like on a railroad.

A helicopter arrived. You understand, the spectacle is beautiful, but very loud. And over there in the distance some industrial zone is noisy. The sound is as if an airplane turbine is working. Maybe that's how it is. As I walked past, I saw several turbines lying around the area. Probably broken.

And the one that works not only makes a lot of noise, but also throws out a real jet stream. Well, you know, when a stream of hot air distorts the picture and becomes noticeable against the background of the rest of the motionless landscape.

What kind of installation is this? To tell the truth, I don't know. And there is no one to ask. There's no one around. Don't enter the territory. Maybe this is how gas is forced to flow through the pipeline. Maybe something else. I won't lie. I will say one thing - it is a noisy thing. You can hear it several kilometers away.

It's a bit of a pity that there are no trees. With them the landscape would be more diverse. But this is not forest-tundra, but simply tundra. In any case, the realization that you are in the real North, beyond the Arctic Circle, walking on the tundra, seeing it with your own eyes, and not in a picture - this is worth something.

On the way back, I stopped by the helicopter pilots to ask if it would be possible to fly to Novy Urengoy by air tomorrow. It would be much faster and more pleasant than being stuck in a car for five or six hours. Alas, they do not operate regular flights. They suggested calling the airline office and asking if a helicopter would fly in that direction tomorrow.

But I didn't. What if they say that it will fly, but in fact it won’t fly, then I’ll be late for the plane... It’s a pity, I haven’t ridden helicopters since the army :)

It's time to go back. The sun is setting, it will soon be dark. In general, the sun here, even during the day, is not very high and shines directly into the eyes instead of shining into the back of the head. And soon the polar night will begin. This will happen in early November. The sun will appear over the horizon only at the very edge and almost immediately set back. It will be dark most of the day. They say it doesn't have a very positive effect on people.

But in the summer there is a polar day here. Even at midnight it is so light outside that you can easily read the text from a sheet of paper without any backlight. At one time I managed to catch the “tail” polar day in Salekhard. But you have to pay for pleasure. It’s not so easy to just go out and walk down the street at night. Guess why?

No. It is not arctic foxes or polar wolves, bears or drunken drillers who will drive us indoors. If you go out into the street without protection, you will immediately become the prey of vile creatures. It just seems that midges are small and harmless. It is clear that one individual insect cannot ruin your walk. The problem is that there are real clouds of them here. To avoid an air attack, you will have to jog, making sure that when you inhale, you do not suck in the insect.

I got to the tundra at a very good time - the beginning of September. It’s already too cold for midges, the weather is bad for flying. I can imagine how fun a walk like this would be at the height of the polar summer. Local residents partly confirmed my assumption. They said that now they are really enjoying life. It's not too cold yet and there are no midges.

Road Tazovsky - Novy Urengoy

We didn’t manage to stay in the village for very long. The filming program was fully completed the next day after arrival. The next morning, the car I ordered the day before by phone was already waiting for me.

I would like to say a few words about the carrier. There are different options for how you can get from Novy Urengoy to Tazovsky and back. The price for everyone is approximately the same - 2000 rubles per person.

But it’s one thing to drive a gazelle, another thing to drive a passenger car. The phone number was given to me at the museum when we were planning our trip. I called the number provided and reserved a seat in the car. At the other end of the line they clarified what day and time I was arriving, asked my name and said that the car would be waiting at the airport.

No advance payment was asked. To tell the truth, I am somewhat wary of such services. My imagination pictured a situation where I was leaving the airport terminal with a suitcase, but there was no car, the phone wasn’t answering, and so on in the same spirit. Frankly, I really would not like to get into such a situation.

But there weren’t really any options. I had to rely on luck and the integrity of the carrier.

The day before arrival, a call rang and the voice on the other end of the line said that such and such a car with such and such a number would be waiting for me. Following this, I received an SMS with the same data so that I would not confuse anything. There was some hope that everything would end well.

Upon arrival, a car with the indicated number was actually waiting for me. I have already described what happened next in the first part of the report.

The return trip also went without complications. The night before I called the same number and ordered a car. Please note: you cannot just take and order a taxi at a certain time. It would be more correct to say that they run on schedule.

When I said what time my flight was expected, I was offered the option of departure at 8:00 am, which I took. Only after that did I start buying a plane ticket. Otherwise, how can it happen: I’ll buy a plane ticket, but the car just won’t go at the right time. You can’t reach Novy Urengoy on foot; helicopters don’t fly there.

If the return ticket had been purchased in advance, then a taxi could have been ordered a day or two in advance. But the nature of my work does not allow me to buy a round-trip ticket.

Firstly, the shooting may take longer or, on the contrary, end faster than planned.

Secondly, I could simply be intercepted in flight and invited to “fly in” on the way to them. This happened, for example, when I went to Petersburg take off virtual tour of the Zoological Museum.

Instead of going home later, I flew to Salekhard, from there to Tyumen, and then almost turned to Samara, but the client thought for so long that he would have to go there separately.

For this reason, you have to buy tickets at the last minute. Luckily for me, there is a taxi in Tazovsky that responds to orders quite quickly.

The way back seemed shorter to me. Maybe because I managed to get enough sleep before the trip. Perhaps the weather was more favorable. We arrived at Novy Urengoy airport 5 hours after departure.

At the same time, at my request, the driver made a stop at the obelisk “Arctic Circle” and “First Well R-2” - the place where the first well in the region was actually drilled. This is where it all started.

Conclusion

Why did I write all this? It is difficult to give an answer from a logical point of view. After all, no one will pay me for this text. Why am I so upset? So, I’m sitting at Sheremetyevo airport on the way home and finishing this text, as they say, “hot on the heels” instead of resting, going to a cafe and chewing something tasty.

For what? Mainly, probably, for myself. You know, artists paint pictures for themselves, and not for sale. Some musicians play for themselves, enjoying the music. I wrote this text simply because I don’t want to irrevocably forget even the smallest details of this amazing trip.

They say that the North somehow changes people. This is not to say that I am ready to give up everything and go to the Arctic. No. And it’s not done like this, right away. But, you know, you will laugh, but “something clicked” in your head.

It is clear that both here and in Salekhard we were able to see the “summer”, warm version of the Arctic. I don't know how I would react to "winter". I’m not ready to move there, but if I’m offered the choice of going to some polar city or, say, Samara, I won’t think twice about it.

The North is an unusual place. Here stereotypes are destroyed and established ideas are changed. There are so many new and interesting things to see here that you want to come back here at least once more. I hope this happens someday, but for now, here are some farewell photos taken from the plane:

The geography of Russia is diverse. In the north, beyond the Arctic Circle, permafrost reigns; in the south, in the subtropics, even in winter the temperature rarely drops below zero. Each region is unique and beautiful in its own way, in each you can find a lot of interesting and unknown things, and people live everywhere.

The Tazovsky district and the Purovsky district (Yamal Peninsula) are populated areas where not only people live. Russia's leading companies extract hydrocarbons in these areas, providing work for the local population, as well as attracting thousands of active people to the polar regions. Exploration is underway in the region, new deposits are being discovered and developed. The Tazovsky Peninsula, which is located beyond the Arctic Circle, was no exception.

Yamal

It is located in the Arctic zone in the northern part of the world's largest West Siberian Plain. Its area exceeds 769 thousand square kilometers. Most of it is above the Arctic Circle. Translated, the name means “Edge of the Earth”, which is quite consistent with its geographical location.

There are over 300 thousand lakes and 48 thousand rivers and streams on its territory. Part of the area is swampy, although thawing occurs only in the summer. The climate here is quite harsh, sharply continental. In addition to Arctic cold cyclones and air masses coming from the Pacific and Atlantic, the climate is influenced by permafrost and the proximity of the icy Kara Sea, which cuts deep into the land. Winter in Yamal lasts at least eight months; the thermometer can drop to minus 59 degrees. The average annual temperature remains below zero.

But the summer here is short and quite cold, although on some days the temperature can rise to plus 30. There are often heavy fogs throughout the entire territory, especially in early autumn. Often accompanied by northern lights. and nights are also a feature of these places.

Geographical information

The Tazovsky Peninsula is located at the northern tip of the West Siberian Plain. On the map it can be found between the Tazovskaya and Ob Bays. It stretches almost 200 kilometers in length and has an average width of 100 kilometers. The predominant surface is flat, rising 100 km above the sea. The vegetation on the peninsula is characteristic of the tundra. Mosses and lichens, as well as shrubs, predominate. The entire territory is literally cut up by ravines, many of which are quite deep. There are also many lakes and swamps. The peninsula is located in a permafrost zone, where the ground freezes many meters deep and even during the short, cool summer thaws no more than half a meter. All these factors influence the flora and fauna.

Tazovsky village

The geographical center of the Tazovsky district is the village of the same name. It is located 200 km from the center of the district, the city of Salekhard, by water - 986 km, by air - 552 km. To Tyumen, the waterway stretches for 2755 km, and the air route is 1341 km. Korotchaevo railway station is located 230 km from the village. 7,339 people live in Tazovsky.

In total, the district has 11 settlements and 5 administrative units. Air service has been established to the Tazovsky Peninsula, and there is a new highway. The infrastructure has been established. These innovations make it possible to supply the Tazovsky Peninsula, the population and enterprises with everything they need. The area has a museum, a music school and an art school for children, libraries and other cultural institutions. All this is done so that both local residents and oil workers who come to develop rich mineral resources can spend their leisure time profitably, and their children receive a comprehensive education.

Historical reference

The first expeditions to the Tazovsky Peninsula began to be equipped by the government of the Russian Empire back in the 16th century. On the river, called Tasu-Yam-yakha by the Nenets, a small trading town was founded, later called Gold-boiling Mangazeya.

The Pomors and Cossacks traveled to these places for about a month along the rivers, delivering provisions, fuel and other vital goods. The ships returned back loaded with valuable fish and furs. From these regions, the royal treasury received up to 80 thousand sable tails. But this did not last long, the locals did not seek cooperation, and the conditions of the campaigns were extremely harsh. And soon Mangazeya was forgotten until the mid-18th century. In 1852, the first settlement of Halmer Sede, which translated means “Graves on the Mountain,” was registered. The fact is that it was founded on a hill where the old Nenets cemetery was located. And again caravans with furs and fish reached the central regions of the country.

When the Bolsheviks came to power, the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug was founded, which included the Tazovsky district. A fish factory was founded here, a river port and airport, first aid stations, schools and other facilities were opened. The main activities of the region were fish and meat industries. This is the time when the Tazovsky Peninsula (Russia) developed rapidly.

In the 60s of the last century, hydrocarbon deposits were discovered in the bowels of Yamal. Active oil and gas production and geological exploration of the entire region began. This direction has become and still remains a priority. Now the country's largest oil-producing enterprises are exploring and extracting liquid gold in these parts, attracting thousands of workers to distant lands.

Flora and fauna

The climate of the Tazovsky Peninsula is quite harsh, so flora and fauna are sparse most of the year. But with the arrival of short summer, flocks of migratory birds flock here and breed on this seemingly unsuitable land for life. Many birds living and nesting here are listed in the Red Book and are not found anywhere else.

The vegetation is dominated by mosses and lichens, moss, dwarf trees, and shrubs. The fauna is represented by fur-bearing animals, which are the target of hunters and poachers. Despite the remoteness of the peninsula and the difficult weather conditions, there are many who want to make money from furs or valuable fish.

Local population

The Tazovsky Peninsula, whose population is represented by 36 different nationalities, is characterized by a small number of residents. Most of them are indigenous people - oil workers and geologists who came from different parts of the country.

The aborigines are pagans, worship the supreme deity Num and the lord of the underground kingdom Nga. The traditions of their ancestors are carefully passed on from generation to generation. The climate of the peninsula is ideal for reindeer herding, and the indigenous people mostly engage in this activity. They, together with their herds, roam the vast expanses of Yamal, living in tents, making clothes from animal skins. The Nenets are also skilled hunters and fishermen.

Rare trees growing in the tundra are objects of worship; their branches are decorated with ribbons by those who come to pray and ask the spirit for blessings. Observance of such traditions does not mean that the population is ignorant. Children study in boarding schools, and after finishing school they choose their own path.

The Tazovsky Peninsula, photos of which amaze with the beauty of the tundra nature, stretching for many kilometers, is quite well developed and populated. In residential areas, active housing construction and infrastructure development are underway.

The distance to the regional center of Salekhard by water is 986 km, by air - 552 km, to the regional center of Tyumen, by water - 2755 km, by air - 1341 km. The nearest railway station in Korotchaevo is 230 km away.

Historical reference

The first mention of the territory that is part of the Tazovsky district today dates back to the 16th century, when the trade route to Mangazeya passed along the Taz River. Stories and legends were told about Golden Boiling Mangazeya. The region was rich in fish, furs, sturgeon, venison, sable and hazel grouse. All this was skillfully obtained by the Nenets - the indigenous inhabitants of the North, engaged in traditional crafts: hunting, reindeer herding and fishing.

The village of Tazovsky was founded in 1883 as a fishing post called Halmer-Sede (Sopka (Mountain) of the Dead - translated from Nenets). Once upon a time, on the hill where the village is now located, there was an old Nenets cemetery.

In 1883, the trading company of Funk, Murzein and Wardropper founded a trading post in an area called Halmer Sede - the first permanent settlement where tea, sugar, matches and other goods were exchanged for fish caught by local residents.

Since 1884, the Halmer-Sede trading post began fishing in the lower reaches of the Taz and Taz Bay. The fishing was organized by local Nenets, who annually harvested about one hundred tons of salted sturgeon and twenty tons of muksun.

In 1907, the Surgut merchants, the Plotnikov brothers, came to the trading post. They built warehouses, shops, residential buildings, and a bathhouse here. The revolution broke out and Soviet power came to the far North. In 1921, a village council was created, which took into its own hands the further arrangement of the lives of local residents, the work of the trading post, the supply of goods, the development of fishing, and the creation of the first partnerships and cooperatives.

In October 1931, the main base enterprise of the village of Halmer-Sede became a fish factory, which was equipped with three boats and four transit vessels. The population of the trading post was 2,560 people, among whom 14 were literate.

On February 1, 1949, by the Decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR, Khalmer-Sede was renamed the village of Tazovskoye, and on June 29, 1964, by the decision of the Tyumen Regional Executive Committee, the village was classified as a workers' settlement. The Tazovsky village council was abolished. The Tazovsky Council was created. The second name of the village comes from the river, which the Nenets called Tasu - the yellow, tundra river. Russian hydrographers called it more conveniently - Taz. Hence the name of the village Tazovsky. In the sixties, new types of economic activity appeared in Tazovsky related to subsoil exploration, development and exploitation of deposits.

By decision of the Meeting of Deputies of the municipal formation of the Tazovsky village dated December 2, 2005 No. 2-1-6, the Charter of the municipal formation of the Tazovsky village was adopted, which determined the Day of the Tazovsky village to be February 1.

Tazovsky (until 1949 Khalmer-Sede) is an urban-type settlement in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug. Administrative center of the Tazovsky district.

Founded in 1883 as a fishing post called Halmer-Sede (Sopka (Mountain) of the Dead - translated from Nenets).

Once upon a time, on the hill where the village is now located, there was an old Nenets cemetery. The status of an urban village has been since 1964.

Most of the region is located on the Gydan Peninsula. The area is sparsely populated. The population of the district as of January 1, 2011 is 16.5 thousand people, including: 6808 people in the village of Tazovsky.

The main water arteries of the region are the Ob, Taz and Gydan Bays, the Taz and Pur rivers. Navigation on them lasts from mid-July to mid-September. The largest rivers in the region are Taz, Pur, Tanama, Messoyakha, Yuribey. There are more than 18 thousand lakes in the region.

From the north and west, the Tazovsky district is washed by the Yenisei Gulf, the Gydan, Yuratsk and Ob bays of the cold Kara Sea, in the east it borders with the Krasnoyarsk Territory, in the south - with the Krasnoselkupsky and Purovsky districts of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug.

The regional center - the village of Tazovsky, is located 200 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle and almost the entire territory of the region - the Tazovsky, Gydansky, Mamonta, Yavai peninsulas and the islands of Oleniy, Shokalsky, Neupokoeva, Damned, Vilkitsky - is located in the Arctic zone. The northernmost of them are located more than 700 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle. The municipal formation of the Tazovsky district includes 5 settlements: the urban settlement of the village of Tazovsky and the rural settlements of the village. Antipayuta, s.

Gaz-Sale, village Gyda and s. Nakhodka.

Even in the Middle Ages, it was known that great wealth was found in the wild Northern regions. Stories and legends were told about Golden Boiling Mangazeya. The region was rich in fish and furs, sturgeon, venison, sable and hazel grouse. All this was skillfully obtained by the Nenets - the indigenous inhabitants of the North, engaged in traditional crafts: hunting, reindeer herding, fishing.

It is in the Tazovsky region that there is the world's largest herd of deer (about 200 thousand heads), huge reserves of valuable fish and the richest underground storehouses, which, according to experts, will determine the level of gas production throughout Russia in the next 10-15 years.

But the main value of the region, its wealth, is its people, thanks to whom, in the 21st century, ancient customs and folk crafts are harmoniously combined with new economic thinking.