How the Unified State Exam in Russian will change. Unified State Exam in Biology

Or the cat “started up on its own” - the children brought the kitten, or someone “kind” dropped it at the door. Perhaps you are planning to purchase a purebred animal from breeders. The way the furry purr gets into your apartment does not matter in this matter.

And the question is not idle - will the cat observe the rules of hygiene and visit the cat litter box as needed, or will it, disregarding the rules and principles, do “dirty” things wherever it pleases? We will look into the issue in detail and try to help cat owners with varying severity of this problem.

Animals, like people, are endowed different levels intelligence. Some people quickly understand that the box with the filling is the toilet (in fairness, I note that this happens extremely rarely), more often a “special” approach is required. Let's look at several situations. The simplest one is that you adopted a kitten more than a month old from a domestic cat who, by the way, lives in an apartment and not in your own house.

In the vast majority of cases, such kittens are taught by a cat; all you have to do is pour the same filler into the tray as in the house where you got the animal. Over time, you can change the filler to one that is more convenient for you to purchase and change.

Just slowly, in small portions, add new filler and remove the old one. This way, you can completely train him to go to an empty tray (preferably, it should be a special double tray in which the contents go out through the holes). read here.

If the cat is a “noble” breed, then its origin is unknown.

Where and how he lived before you is also unclear, then you need to experimentally test all methods of training. Any of the following will probably work. Most likely, the animal was born and grew up on the street, i.e., it got used to going to the toilet in the ground, in the sand. Then, during the habituation stage, you will have to pour “street” filler into the tray - sand from the street, for example. Add a little earth there “for the smell,” so to speak. You can also gradually replace the filler.

And while the animal gets used to it, wash the floor in the hallway, adding a fragrant substance to the water. detergent to confuse and prevent the appearance of "cat spots" in front door. Let me make a reservation right away - many cats are calm about the smell of bleach, so it’s better to buy a cheap shampoo with a strong smell and add it to the water when washing floors.

If the cat nevertheless chose his “favorite place” in the wrong place, then you can try to scare the cat at the moment when he set his sights on “dirty deeds”. You can throw a bunch of keys nearby, clap your hands sharply, or spray the cat with a spray bottle.

This method works flawlessly on some impressionable animals. You can also put something with a strong smell, for example, wet wipe with a strong odor. Just be sure to replace it when it dries out.

But if you come across a “thick-skinned” specimen that is difficult to reach, then you need to act differently. Try to place the tray in your “favorite place”, and then gradually move it towards the toilet. And it’s better to fence off the “wrong” place with something as you move the tray away from it. Sprays for litter box training are effective. It is necessary to spray the tray with spray after each replacement.

When the cat explores the apartment for the first time, he needs to be placed in a tray sprayed with spray so that he gets used to the smell. Certainly, ideal option so that during the animal’s adaptation to its new place of residence, someone is always at home. To catch the animal in time when it starts looking for a place to toilet.

The signs of such searches are usually always obvious. The kitten begins to restlessly sniff the corners and tries to sit down. It is precisely at this moment that he needs to be caught and placed on a tray, accompanying the action with gentle persuasion. And the next time the kitten starts sniffing the corners, you need to talk to him sternly, explaining that this is not possible.

If you still didn’t manage to catch the hooligan at the “crime scene,” then you need to in a stern voice scold him, then put him on the tray and gently explain where everything needs to be done. Sometimes it happens that a fully grown and litter-trained animal begins to do dirty tricks “big” or “small.” There are actually not many reasons for this behavior.

The most common is that your pet protests because of some irritating factors. It rarely happens that for the sake of a cat you can, for example, stop repairs, cancel a move, move out a new family member, etc. You will have to give the animal water sedatives. It is better to consult a veterinarian about their choice.

This is also how animals can manifest the reproductive instinct - it attracts an individual of the opposite sex with its smell. In this case, you can do two things - give the animal pills, or castrate the cat, or sterilize the cat, solving the problem once and for all with the latter method.

One has only to draw your attention to the fact that it is better to do castration of cats a little in advance - when the cat has grown up, but has not yet begun to “mark the corners”. Then the chance that the cat will not do any mischief is very high.

If a cat has been “marking its territory” for a long time, and you suddenly decide to castrate it, then there is a high risk that it will continue its ingrained line of behavior. In this case, even after castration, you need to give the animal a sedative. The main thing is to take into account the temperament and character of the animal in this delicate matter. Persuasion works well on nervous and impressionable animals, sedatives and pungent odors in “wrong” places.

Calm and mischievous cats can be influenced using the newspaper or slipper method. Just don't hit the animal. You can simply slam a sneaker or newspaper sharply near the wrong place when you “sit down.” And then simply threaten him with a slipper or a newspaper when he is about to “go the wrong way.”

Which tray to choose?

Even in this simple matter Like choosing a tray, there are a lot of difficulties and surprises.

Tray size

Depending on the breed of the pet and the possible maximum growth in the future, the size of the tray is selected. At the same time, length and width are not all criteria when choosing. Depth has great value in the comfort of using the tray for animals. The height of the sides varies from 5 cm to 15 cm. The best option is a 10-centimeter side.

For large breeds, the size is selected so that at least 4 adult cats of the selected breed can be seated in the tray. It should also not be too large so that the animal clearly understands the limits of its capabilities. The possibility of installing such a tray in a specific location is also taken into account.

Tray material

The standard solution when purchasing a tray is to choose a plastic tray. This product is easy to clean, wear-resistant, does not absorb foreign odors, and is affordable.

But in recent years Trays made from natural materials – wood – have also become popular. Outwardly, it looks very eco-friendly and natural, but when used, such a tray is not practical. Wood absorbs odors, which are not so easy to get rid of. Wood also absorbs moisture, where if it gets constantly wet, fungus or mold can develop.

Tray models

The following models of trays are common for “cat people”:

1. Whole. It has the appearance of a rectangle, smooth inside without obvious protrusions or reliefs. Cat litter is used for this. The most optimal and universal option for training a cat to use a litter tray.
2. With mesh. Externally it looks like a solid tray. Only a special mesh is installed inside, which serves as a kind of filter. The cat defecates, the liquids drain to the bottom of the tray, while the litter is not used, and the tray has to be washed after each visit by the cat to the toilet.
3. With high sides. An additional side is installed on the solid tray, which serves as additional protection against the spread of filler elements throughout the room. Can also be used as a film clip. When installing the film, it is clamped with a side. After the cat defecates, the film can be removed and thrown away and covered with another one.
4. Closed. This type of tray-house is also called. Suitable for a few people, since cats usually ignore it, which makes toilet training more difficult.
5. Auto. It is only good for the owner, since the tray is capable of self-cleaning and replacing the filler. Cats rarely recognize it due to the noise of the cleaning process.

Cat litter

There are two main types of filler composition - natural and artificial.

It will be better for the animal if the owners choose natural (wooden sawdust pressed into pellets). After loose bowel movements, the granules swell and disintegrate. You can’t clean such an area right away; there’s not much of a smell.

After the granules break down into sawdust, they stick to the cat’s paws and spread throughout the home. Therefore, pet owners prefer artificial types of fillers. The principle of their action is to envelop feces, thereby neutralizing the odor. The filler does not cling to the paws and does not spread.

Nuances of the litter box training process

• It may happen that your pet does not like the litter - excessive flavorings in the litter can scare the animal away. To begin with, it is better to get by with neutral scents or no scents.
• If your cat stubbornly refuses to go to the litter box, reconsider your choice. Perhaps it is too big and has high sides. Try changing the type of filler, the tray itself.
• If a cat was adopted that was already older than a kitten, then the training process is practically no different. The only thing is that an adult animal will understand the essence much faster and will not commit incidents with “misses”.
• During training, do not allow the animal into all rooms of the home. After sustainable results, access can be expanded.
• When defecating in the wrong place, use a special solution or make it yourself - mix alcohol, vinegar and water in a 1:1:1 ratio and treat the place where the incident occurred.
• Repeat attempts again and again if the cat cannot get used to the place of defecation. This requires patience and calm.

Keep in mind that a cat is an animal that lives according to its own instincts, and not according to the rules of the owner’s family.

How to stop a cat from marking

In nature, cats adhere to hierarchical system behavior. Marks can only be left by cats that are leaders, or those that claim this place. Therefore, in home environment, a cat must have its own leader, whom he will respect. But it is impossible to achieve this by poking the cat’s muzzle into your secretions and hitting him with slippers. The problem needs to be solved differently.

You may find this funny and amusing, but you will have to arrange something like a cat fight. Cats don't understand human speech, That's why the best solution will act in their language of sounds and gestures. When the cat raises its tail to mark something, go up to it and grab it by the scruff of the neck. When he calms down and presses his paws, it will be possible to proceed directly to the battle of characters.

First you need to hiss at the cat. Also, throughout the entire process, try not to look away if interrupted. eye contact, the cat will consider that he has won. Without any effort, using light blows of your fingers, hit the cat on the face, this will simulate blows with your paws.

With all this, you need to be really angry with your cat, since they sense quite well emotional state person. Otherwise, he will not take this fight seriously.

If everything is done correctly, he will stop resisting. When the cat starts to turn away and meow, it can be considered that the job is done. All that remains is to wash away all traces; in order to leave your scent, spray your perfume or cologne on the marks. A new leader will appear in the house and you will be able to forget about the unpleasant smell and aggressive behavior cat

In general, as practice shows, cats are animals with bright expressed individuality. And in all cases an individual approach to them is needed.

Read about it here.

Teaching a kitten to go to the toilet in the right place is quite simple, which cannot be said about an animal with a developed character and habits. If you take an already adult cat into your home, for example, from the street, serious difficulties may arise with litter training, since the animal simply does not understand why it suddenly has to do its business in some incomprehensible trough.

It is still possible to teach an adult cat to go to the toilet in the right place. However, to achieve the desired result, you will have to make some efforts, be patient and strictly follow the recommendations given by veterinarians and experienced cat owners.

Selecting a location

An important role in training a cat to use the litter box is played by the place where it stands. The cat will not go to the toilet anywhere. For this task, she needs a secluded corner where she can remain in absolute solitude, hidden from prying eyes. Therefore, you need to choose a quiet place, ideally slightly shaded. Premises such as a bathroom or a heated loggia are perfect for it. You can also use the pantry for these purposes. It is important that the animal can easily get to its toilet at any time.

The kitchen and hallway are completely unsuitable for installing a tray. This has to do with hygiene and the fact that it is very difficult to find a suitable quiet place in these rooms. And the cat may also not like doing his business in a place where other people often visit.

Tray selection

The cat litter itself has great importance, since the pet will never go to a tray that is uncomfortable for him. The length and width of the tray should be such that the cat fits entirely in it, and there is still a little space left on each side. The latter is due to the habit of cats burying their waste, for which they need some space.

The height of the sides of the toilet should not be less than ten centimeters. Better - more. This way the cat will feel more protected, hidden from prying observers. And during the burying process, filler and excrement will not fly out of the tray, which will make life easier for the animal’s owners.

In addition to standard trough-shaped toilets, there are also tray-houses. This is a rectangular box, closed on all sides, with a door for the animal to pass through. These are more expensive than regular ones, but they are more convenient for both the cat and his owner. Such a tray gives the animal the same feeling of security and intimacy, and a person - cleanliness in the house, since nothing will spill out of this toilet. Also, the houses are usually equipped with special carbon filters that prevent odors from the inside from penetrating outside. Therefore, such a tray can be placed in the corridor, and even in the living room.

Tray training a cat

The process of training an animal to go to the toilet right place consists mainly of showing the cat this very place and explaining why it is needed. For this purpose, you need to carefully monitor the animal. When he wants to do things (usually this happens a short period of time after eating), he will become restless, look for a place, sit in the corners, and rake his paws along the floor. Once this behavior is noticed, you can proceed in one of two ways:

1. 1. Take the cat, take it to the tray and put it in it. Most likely, she will do her business there. If this does not happen, the animal jumps out of the toilet and tries to escape; it is necessary to catch it and put it back in the tray until the desired result is obtained.
2. 2. Bring the tray itself to the place chosen by the cat and place it there. In this case, having started doing her business, she will finish it by going to the toilet. After this, there is no need to remove it and change the filler so that the next time the animal detects it by smell. If next time the cat still sits in the wrong place, you should take him to the litter box. Sensing a familiar smell, the animal goes to the toilet where it is supposed to.

Most often, it is enough for a cat to do things in the tray once in order to continue going there without mistakes. But if this does not happen, you must first put the toilet in the place that the animal has chosen for its business. Then you need to gradually move the tray a few centimeters every day to where it should eventually stand. This process will take quite a long time, but the cat will not even understand that the toilet has been moved and will go to it regularly.

The opinion that it is more difficult to accustom a male to a litter box than a female is incorrect. If the cat is not neutered, he can leave odorous marks throughout the apartment. But cats are more capricious and finicky creatures, and if the pet doesn’t like something in the toilet, she will never go to it.

If a cat goes to the toilet in the wrong place in the absence of the owners, the puddle should be blotted with a napkin, which is then placed in the tray. Transfer the excrement there. To ensure that the animal no longer uses the chosen place for its business, it can be treated with ammonia, bleach, vinegar essence or citrus-scented aroma oil. A strong unpleasant smell will scare away the cat and make him avoid this area of ​​the apartment. And such products will also destroy harmful microorganisms that can be dangerous to people.

Under no circumstances should you scold a cat or poke its nose into its own waste. The animal will only get angry at such actions and will start going to the toilet in the corners out of revenge. Instead, you need to quietly, but persistently and strictly pronounce any prohibiting word (“No”, “Ugh”), and then take the cat to the litter box, demonstrating to him where things need to be done.

If the cat stops going to the right place

If a domestic cat, which previously regularly visited the litter box, begins to go to the toilet past it, the reasons may be as follows:

• health problems (especially if it is a castrated male);
• the animal does not like the tray or the place where it is located;
• the cat is not satisfied with the filler;
• The tray is not cleaned often enough.

Based on this, you must first take your pet to the veterinarian. If he is healthy, you should pay attention to other reasons. The most likely one is that the toilet is too dirty. This means you need to try to clean it more often. Cats are clean animals, and at the slightest dirt they may refuse to go to the litter box. Therefore, excrement and top layer litter (or its lumps) must be removed as they appear, and once every two weeks the contents of the toilet must be completely changed and washed.

To accustom your cat to the litter box, you need to make sure that it is comfortable for her and is located in a fairly secluded place. The toilet should be moved to the place that the animal has chosen for its business, if this does not cause any particular inconvenience to the owner. It’s also worth experimenting with the filler - very often pets don’t like it. You can try to start using a different type, and also pay attention to other manufacturers.

• if possible, each of them should purchase a separate tray;
• when a new one appears in a house where cats already live, it will be easier for him to learn to go to the litter box, following the example of animals who are already familiar with the rules of behavior in the apartment;
• similarly, if several animals were taken at the same time, it is enough to train only one of them to the tray, and the rest will most likely follow his example.

For an outdoor cat, instead of store-bought litter, at first you should pour regular soil or sand into the tray. This will make it easier for the animal to understand what exactly the strange object is intended for. If an adult cat did not come into the house from the street, it is better to take it from its previous owners along with the litter box. In a new place, she will be much more willing to go to the familiar toilet. The filler used should also be familiar to the animal.

Cats are capricious creatures. And, frankly speaking, their character is strong. Despite their natural intelligence and intelligence, these animals often suffer due to their own stubbornness and unwillingness to put up with the rules, installed by man. For example, they ignore the tray prepared for the latrine and stubbornly relieve themselves in the place they choose.

For most cat owners, this problem does not arise when the animal has been living in the house almost since infancy, and at the same age it was trained to use a litter box (kittens are generally easy to train to use a litter box). If an adult cat who was previously trained to use a litter box is settling into your home, then most likely she will quickly figure out where her toilet is located in her new home and will use it regularly. However, this may not happen if a change of residence causes real stress for the animal, and refusal of the tray becomes a kind of protest.

An adult cat, taken from the street or simply accustomed to going out to relieve itself in freedom, and not in a plastic ditch, will also have to be trained to use a litter tray. Therefore, the question of how to do this is far from idle. For many, a cat’s refusal to use the litter box becomes a stumbling block in their relationship with the animal. As a result of an unsuccessful struggle for a person, such stubborn people best case scenario move to live in private sector, and in the worst case they end up on the street. Let's not talk about the moral side of this behavior of owners of stubborn cats, but let's talk about how to still try to teach an adult cat to go to the litter box.

Choosing a place for the toilet

The kitchen and hallway are absolutely not suitable for cat litter. Firstly, this is unacceptable from the point of view of apartment hygiene. Agree that a toilet (even a cat’s) has no place in the kitchen, where food is prepared, or in the hallway, where people dress and put on their shoes. A generally suitable place can be considered a pantry if it is convenient for you and your cat. Secondly, a cat may refuse to use the toilet where people are often: she, as already mentioned, is a delicate creature.

Selecting a tray

An alternative to a cuvette tray will be a special toilet house, which will be convenient for the cat and will make it easier for you to care for the cat litter box. The fact is that such special houses are equipped with filters that clean the air from the natural smell of what remains in it after a cat’s visit there. And if you do not have time to remove the tray in time, the filters will neutralize the odor. Cats also begin to relieve themselves with great pleasure, using the houses, since such toilets are equipped with a roof and walls and completely hide the cat from prying eyes. Yes, and you can place such a closed toilet not only in the bathroom, but even in the hallway - this will not bother a cat.

We train a cat to use the toilet

First, you need to keep an eye on the animal. The cat will want to relieve itself soon after eating. Although, we note, they can endure for a long time. By the way, you can introduce your cat to the toilet immediately after it appears in the house. As we have already said, animals often intuitively understand the purpose of the tray. If this happened in your case, then the problem is solved: once you go to the litter box, the cat (or cat) will begin to use it constantly.

But if the animal does not immediately recognize its toilet in the tray, then wait until the need for it arises. Having wanted to go to the toilet, the cat will begin to look for a secluded place to relieve itself. Noticing this, take the animal, take it to the tray and put it in it. Stroke, calm and move away. Most likely, the cat will begin to dig into the litter, pave the way, and eventually do its job in the litter box. If she jumps out of the litter box and tries to escape, return her to the litter box again and again until she relieves herself there.

Another option. Seeing that the cat has chosen a place and is already pooping to pee or poop, quickly place the tray in this place and put the animal in it. Being almost in the process, the animal will continue the task once it is in the tray. Do not change the litter: next time the cat will start looking for the toilet by smell. If she goes back to her original place, then take her to the tray. Having smelled a familiar smell, the cat will use the tray for its intended purpose.

If the animal still returns to its original place, temporarily place the tray there and begin to gradually move it to where you originally intended to place the tray. This will take time, but for the animal such a process of movement will be invisible. And one more piece of advice.

If you adopted a cat from the street, then for the first time pour not litter into the tray, but ordinary soil or sand: the usual consistency and smell of what is in the tray will help the cat understand what the cuvette is intended for. If an animal poops in a secluded corner in your absence, blot the puddle with a napkin and place the napkin in the tray. If, in addition to the puddle, the animal left behind more visible traces, then transfer these “traces” to the tray as well. And generously treat the place chosen by the cat for the toilet. ammonia or vinegar essence: a strong and pungent smell will make the animal ignore this place.

Possible problems

Many cats do not want to share a litter box with another animal. And if more than one cat lives in your house, then purchase a separate tray for each animal. In general, it is impossible to say exactly how easily you will be able to train your cat to use the toilet. It all depends on the character, temperament and intelligence of the animal. But nothing is impossible. With enough patience on your part, the cat will sooner or later recognize the tray as a place for the toilet and begin to go into it. Be persistent and inventive, and you will definitely succeed!

8121 views

If you want to take a second cat into your home, then you may encounter the problem of conflicts between the two animals in the house. The instincts of animals force them to protect their territory, protect those places where they can find food and raise offspring. If in nature a predator allows everyone into its territory, then soon it will be left without prey and die. The domestic cat has not lost these instincts.

However, patience and some knowledge of the behavior of cats will help reconcile completely unfamiliar animals with each other.

The most important rule: never introduce cats right away. A new cat must be temporarily isolated in a separate room (preferably, of course, a room with its owners). While the cat has not yet gotten used to it, it needs time to come to terms with the move and explore the new territory.

At first, the animal may hide and not make contact. This is normal behavior, because adult animals are very attached to a place and every change of habitat is for them severe stress. The cat must calm down, only then will it begin to explore the territory and recognize its new owners.

A new cat must be temporarily isolated in a separate room.

Provide her room with food, water, a litter box, and a house where she can hide and feel safe. Try to play with her (not right away, of course), speak to her kindly in a quiet voice and pet her as soon as she allows. After a couple of days, the cat will be completely comfortable, and then you can begin the process of getting to know the other cat.

All these days you should not only try to help the new cat adapt, but also show your first cat that there is a new cat in the house. new resident. To do this, change the places of the trays once or twice a day, place things that smell like the new cat (bedding, toys) in places where the first cat likes to rest. After petting your new cat, pet your first cat without washing your hands, and vice versa. This will demonstrate that there is another cat in the house.

The acquaintance itself should first be very short: open the door for one or two hours so that the first cat can enter and see who has been hiding all this time behind closed door. The first meeting may not be very friendly, so carefully monitor the animals’ reactions. During this time, you should try to play with the cats by teasing and be sure to pet both of them. After an hour or two, you need to separate them again.

Gradually increase the time your cats spend together without leaving them alone. Keep an eye on them, play with them and feed them until you are sure that they do not pay attention to each other or even greet each other by sniffing. Then you can freely release both cats and no longer worry about any conflicts.

These actions may take you from three days to a week, but most often cats accept each other already on the third or fourth day.

Having taken responsibility and bringing home a kitten or an adult cat from the street, you need to be prepared for the fact that in addition to establishing contact with an animal that does not trust its new owner, you also need to teach the pet basic skills, for example, litter box training.

This will require a huge supply of patience and time, because street cats have their own established habits, which can be difficult to overcome.

Tray training an outdoor cat

It is necessary to take into account the habits of outdoor cats, namely that they relieve themselves in the ground or sand, and then bury their excrement. Knowing this, you can try pouring sand into a large tray, which may attract the animal. In order for the animal to understand what the tray with sand is for, pieces of newspaper or newspaper soaked in cat urine should be placed on top of the sand. toilet paper. You can try putting hay in the box; some outdoor cats only go to the toilet in the hay at first.

Places that the animal considers most suitable for relieving itself should be treated with repellent sprays or thoroughly washed with an odor neutralizing agent so that the pet cannot smell the smell of its urine. If unsuccessful, you can place a bowl of food in the marked places or spray the area with valerian; cats do not like to shit where they eat.

After eating or sleeping, you can try locking the cat in a room where there is a tray, usually a toilet, or in another confined space, such as a cage. The cage should be spacious so that a tray can be placed inside, while the pet can relieve itself calmly, without restriction of movements. To train an outdoor cat to use a litter box, use a new box with low sides, large enough to allow the cat to bury excrement in the sand.

You need to monitor your pet's behavior. If signs are observed that indicate the pet’s desire to relieve itself, then you need to immediately pick up the animal and transfer it to the tray.

From the moment an outdoor cat starts going into a tray with sand, you need to wait some time until the animal makes it a habit. Then gradually, in small portions, mix the filler into the sand. As a result, the sand needs to be completely replaced with toilet filler, but there is no need to rush. It is better to choose wood and odorless filler. If you plan to accustom an outdoor cat to a litter box without litter, then at the first stages of training, filler (special or sand) is poured under the grid and small quantity on the grill, and only then gradually remove it, reduce the amount of filler, getting rid of it completely.

If your pet has started going to the litter box only in small ways, then it is advisable to purchase another box. Usually, meowing pets begin to do their “big” things in another box.

Gradually, the litter box should be moved to another location towards the permanent toilet. The animal should not notice a strong difference in changing the position of the tray.

It may take a month or more to train an outdoor cat to use a litter box. The main thing is to be patient and praise your pet for correct behavior. Some animals quickly understand what is required of them if there is already a toilet-trained cat in the house.