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It's frosty outside, it's time for winter outerwear. When taking out a sheepskin coat or down jacket from the closet, few of us think that, although widespread today, this outerwear was in short supply for our mothers’ generation. Here is such a paradox: a coat or overcoat made of natural wool is very common in the USSR winter clothes, which was worn by almost everyone. What about the down jacket?
Looking through these cartoons, you can understand what fashionistas and fashionistas looked like in the 60s and 70s. Today, retro is in fashion, including references to the style of mods and hippies. The basics of style (hyperbolized, of course) are easy to read.
60s (dudes)
Today you play jazz... Vibrant colors, short haircuts and skirts... yes, these are the same “hipsters” who were shown in the film of the same name.
Skinny jeans with pipes, styling on girls, new look style in dresses.
Cartoonists mainly ridiculed psychedelic flowers.
Although the “semolina-porridge” platforms also suffered. These same platforms will be mentioned in the hippie style.
Another new look:
60s (Teddy Boys)
The style of “hooligan gentlemen”. It appeared in England in the late 40s, but was then revived in the 70s and 90s. Tired of the Second World War, the guys wanted to dress with chic and gloss and took as a basis the style of the times of King Edward (this is the 10s of the 20th century, in fact, the king was nicknamed Teddy, hence the name of the style): three-piece suits, English dandyism and gloss.
Jacket with double collar, fitted coat, tapered trousers and hair waxed. If you're interested, you can look at Elvis Presley. These guys listened to jazz, rock and roll and swing.
Girls are also starting to dress like guys. True, not everyone dared to wear trousers, replacing them with a skirt. But they also cut their hair short.
Unisex Caricatures
Interestingly, having emerged as the style of the “golden youth”, it almost immediately became the style of the working outskirts.
60-70s (fashion)
A counterweight to the style of the “Teddy Boys,” the Mods—short for “modernists”—listened not to rock and roll, but to modern jazz and blues. Hence the name. This movement was formed from people from the middle class, for whom it was important to “be” and not “to appear.” If Presley threw parties for show, even turning his period at the front into a show, then fashion simply enjoyed life. on them great influence the beatniks and the then London cultural bohemia had a role. All that is known for sure about them is their love for jazz, scooters and amphetamines. And confrontation with rockers. And the worldwide expansion of culture. The Beatles and the Rolling Stones, for example.
Soviet fashions wear coats and styles, imitating London youth.
Skirts are becoming short, as are women's haircuts (thanks to Twiggy and Mary Quant).
Cartoonists did not ignore this:
Skirt lengths in the 60s
70s (hippie)
The subculture, which originated in the USA in the 60s, reached us in the 70s.
This is a very famous subculture that has influenced world fashion (even defining the style of an entire generation). Flower children, “yes to love, no to war” and other reflections on the war in Vietnam. You can see the original hippies in Forrest Gump. Soviet hippies... many famous rockers, punks and bards were hippies in their youth. For example, Arefieva, Umka, Yanka and Letov, Venya Dyrkin and Yuri Shevchuk.
Hairstyles become like this: guys grow their manes (and there are many cartoons about this topic).
Girls either grow it too, and then we see the picture “Hacks”:
Or as in the following case:
Mostly they were scolded for being untidy appearance, love for fringes and patches. After all, initially it was a symbol of disdain for material things, but soviet man must be neat and tidy.
Therefore the censure:
And of course, the ubiquitous unisex:
Sheepskin coat
But one more thing with the advent of the hippie style to our lands has become simply mega-relevant. This is Her Majesty Sheepskin Coat. As can be seen from the caricatures, the sheepskin coat repeated the general sloppiness, the desire for hanging forms, fringe and vertical elongation.
And it also becomes clear that getting it is not so easy.
80s (disco and techno)
In the 80s, aerobics, sports, bodybuilding and... sportswear came into fashion.
Along with disco, it set the tone general mood and appearance. Down jackets have migrated from winter sports to everyday life.
Disco style makeup... how can you not beat this?
Makeup Caricatures
90s (glamour)
The shortage is gaining momentum:
It's a little bit no longer soviet caricature(more precisely, this is the very end of the USSR, the times of perestroika), but let it be:
Jeans (fabric)
Jeans came to the USSR in the 70s; the history of their appearance in the vastness of their homeland is complex and thorny. But with their arrival, the cartoonists acquired another “very recognizable feature” of anti-Sovietism.
Difficulty “getting” things
One more fertile soil for cartoons. No comments: .jpg)
But, obviously, this is how metalworkers began in the USSR (and this is an illustration of another way of getting “fashionable things”)
Or like this:
The Complete Style Guide
Thanks to him, we know exactly what was worn for all occasions.
Artists
I would like to say a special “thank you” to the artists. They are very talented, without them we would not have known how difficult and expensive it was to maintain a good appearance, keep up with new products and in general: how would a Soviet person know latest news fashion?
Western cartoons on Soviet UnionI conceived this post as a continuation of the post about Soviet-era cartoons. I was wondering what cartoons in Western countries did you draw on the USSR?
As expected, there were a lot of them. Many caricatures were made of Stalin - it was a favorite topic! And besides, the cartoons were sometimes very angry.
In 1936, Vanity Fair magazine published a cartoon by the Mexican artist Miguel Covarrubias, where in the air, holding on to the lines of parachutes, Elsa Schiaparelli (Italian fashion designer, designer, creator of the ready-to-wear style) talks with Stalin, who also has a parachute on your back.
And next to the picture was placed the following dialogue:
« Stalin. What are you doing here, dressmaker?
Skiap. I'm reviewing your women's toilets.
Stalin. Can't leave our women alone?
Skiap. And they don’t want to be left alone, they want to be like other women in the world.
Stalin. How about these stuffed animals without thighs and breasts of your agonizing civilization?!
Skiap. You know, they are already admiring our mannequins, our models. Sooner or later they will accept our ideals.
Stalin. Never, as long as Soviet ideology exists!
Skiap. Look down, man of steel: beauty institutes and hairdressing salons are emerging, followed by fashion. In a few years you won't see headscarves anymore.
Stalin. You underestimate the depth of soul of Russian women.
Skiap. And you are a natural feminine coquetry.
Stalin. Maybe cut the lines of your parachute...
Skiap. A hundred others will take my place.
Stalin. Then I’ll cut mine!”
Caricature of Stalin and the collectivization of agriculture
"Everyone follows the player who plays the pipe"
The inscriptions on those sitting around the cauldron read “slavery,” “war,” and “famine.”
OK. 1939.
“Stalin feeds shovels of people and iron to the Underworld.”
Before World War II, anti-Stalinist cartoons were in vogue in the West. The Italian newspaper Stampa Sera depicts Soviet leader in the form of a devil.
Was huge amount caricatures of Stalin and Hitler
And this is how World War II began. A famous cartoon from the Western press was captioned: “I wonder how long this honeymoon will last?”
Here's a caricature of Munich Agreement 1938
Summer 1940. Political cartoon about annexation attempts Baltic States to the USSR. Western Europe, 1940. A very evil caricature...
Caricatures of Stalin and Churchill
“I think things will go better when you are on our side,” Churchill says from behind Stalin. Churchill in this caricature, by the way, doesn’t look much like himself. The cartoon is dated the end of June 1941. The Germans arrive confident that the end of both Britain and the Soviet Union will soon come.
"You have to trust him, Britannia. He just wants to protect you." The cartoon on the cover of Lustige Blätter magazine is a reaction to the conclusion of a military alliance between the USSR and Britain.
And this is already the winter of 1942. "Results winter offensive. He bit the steel." Near Moscow, the Germans suffered a crushing defeat for the first time in the entire war. But don't admit it, in fact. The Germans in the rear must be sure that everything is fine at the front.
1942 “We are waiting!!!” And so the Soviet Union in the first years of the war represents American artist Arthur Schick from Collier's magazine. While Stalin beats Hitler and Mussolini, Churchill and Roosevelt bide their time.
Poster by Paix et Liberté, a French anti-communist group of artists, who timed its distribution to coincide with the USSR's participation in the Stockholm Appeal (a document adopted at the session of the Standing Committee World Congress supporters of peace, held in Stockholm from 15 to 19 March 1950 on the initiative of Frederic Joliot-Curie). With this poster they pointed out, in their opinion, the empty rhetoric of Stalin, who called for peace, but in fact, as we see, sought to destroy the poor French with the help of crushing bladed weapons.
An amazing example of anti-communist propaganda is a 1947 comic about America, in which the communists came to power. Child informers, outlawed religion, unlimited government power, food rationing and concentration camps in Alaska - this is how the comic book authors imagined the communist future.
Caricature of Khrushchev. Cuban missile crisis...
Brezhnev became the next favorite subject of cartoons.
Cartoon from an Arabic magazine 1981-82. With big muscles, Mr. R. Reagan, and next to him is Comrade. Brezhnev
Brezhnev in Czechoslovakia
Brezhnev and Sakharov.
1980 USSR troops have been in Afghanistan for the second year.
Brezhnev and Afghan communist leader Babrak Karmal sip martinis at an unmarked grave.
Cartoons from Israeli publications. “Third”, inscription on the basin: “Middle East”. Kariel Gardosh (“Dosh”), illustrations for the book “Sorry that we won”, 1967.
"Don't despair! Try again!" The inscription on the tree: "Israel."
Another caricature of our relations with the Middle East. "Today... and tomorrow!" 1/5/70 - Abdel Nasser's dependence on the USSR grows.
In the cartoon, to the left, the leader of Taiwan flies off from the blow of an American racket; on the right, Leonid Ilyich Brezhnev flies off from the blow of a Chinese racket, general secretary Central Committee of the CPSU (USSR).
The caption under the cartoon is the culmination of ping-pong diplomacy.
The good, the bad, the evil... and finally - the axis of evil!!!
Reagan and Brezhnev
"How to respond to Moscow?"
"Our countries have created an anti-missile missile and an anti-missile interceptor...uh, to be honest, I'm confused!" Caricature shows Kosygin and Eisenhower
The times of other politicians have come - new caricatures have appeared.
This cartoon is from the American newspaper "New York Times"
M.S.Gorbachev and B.N.Yeltsin.
The Second World War ended in 1945 world war, A former allies- The USA and the USSR were already preparing for a new war, this time a cold one.
March 5, 1946 Winston Churchill says famous speech in Fulton, which is considered the beginning cold war. Ironically, exactly seven years later, on March 5, 1953, he would die. main opponent USA and all Western world- Stalin. Whether it was just a coincidence or a sign is no longer important, but the fact remains.
Immediately after the end of World War II, the rules of warfare on the fronts of the Cold War were laid down. The propaganda weapon has acquired new value: If nuclear bombs, which the superpowers acquired, were weapons of deterrence and were not subject to use, according to for obvious reasons, then propaganda became the only possible offensive weapon, which both sides used sometimes gracefully, and sometimes rather clumsily.
We have selected cartoons that may have something in common with nowadays and show the intensity of the struggle in those years. Cartoonists, of course, were at the forefront of this front, and the Krokodil magazine was one of the most powerful weapons of this war.
We will start with the Korean War, which few people remember today, but whose significance was no less than Vietnamese. In it, the two superpowers did not have a direct clash, but actively participated in the armed conflict, supplying weapons, specialists, financing warring parties. Of course, the parties accused each other of direct participation in the conflict, although both sides did not admit their participation.
It is interesting to note that America’s current “successes” in local conflicts in Iraq, Libya, and Afghanistan, it turns out, are based precisely on Korean War. The conflict between North and South Korea from 1950 to 1953 is officially considered to be intranational, but in fact the two superpowers were widely involved. As you know, the result of this war was the division of the country into two parts, and the United States was forced to leave the North of the Korean Peninsula.
Both sides accused each other of the mass death of civilians and the destruction of peaceful objects.
Cartoonists paid a lot of attention to the work of the UN. Even then, the USSR constantly reproached the United States for manipulating the UN. Below is a cartoon inspired by a quote from Stalin’s conversation with a Pravda correspondent: “In essence, the UN is now not so much a world organization as an organization for Americans, acting to serve the needs of the American aggressors.”
Click to view
And that everything is dictated by capital from Wall Street.
And the US Congress, as a purely hostile institution, was portrayed quite ominously.
US allies were generally accused of not having their own own position. Approximately the same situation is now developing in the European Union. This is especially obvious if we consider Europe’s position regarding sanctions against Russia.
Russia, both then and now, is concerned about the expansion of NATO and the emergence large quantity US military bases around the world. In 1952, the first wave of NATO expansion took place; two new countries, Greece and Turkey, joined the twelve founding countries. Since the founding of NATO, there have been six waves of expansion of this bloc.
Oil decided everything, both half a century ago and now. And the goals were always the same - control over oil in the Middle East.
Krokodil sometimes published cartoons from friendly magazines socialist camp, for example, the Polish magazine "Shpilka". In them, the cartoons were not so aggressive and offensive; they paid more attention to economic situation USA. I must admit that since then the template reflection economic condition America is not much different.
The USSR always pointed out that the United States, hiding behind the goals of spreading democracy, in fact, pursues other goals.
The parties, of course, accused each other of bias, of media bias, including unwillingness to see anything good in the other side. According to the USSR, the tone was set by media tycoons, including the media empire of William Hearst, which currently owns more than fifty newspapers, as well as the famous glossy magazines Cosmopolitan, Esquire, Harper’s Bazaar and many others.
Any excuse was used for propaganda. Centenary of the death of N.V. Gogol was used to the fullest, quotes from his works were used. Very interesting quote about Europe was posted on home page"Crocodile"
And more quotes from Gogol and caricatures.
There have always been persons in history to whom it is attributed special role in the deterioration of relations of a particular country. Nowadays, few people remember who Harriman Averell was, about whom Stalin said that he bears some responsibility for the deterioration of relations between the USSR and the USA after World War II. He served as coordinator of the Marshall Plan from 1948 to 1950, from 1950 to 1951 - special assistant to President Truman for foreign affairs, and also as an industrialist. And here quotes from “dead souls” come in handy.
Click to view
Since the middle of the Second World War, the USA, USSR and Great Britain began large-scale work on the production of bacteriological weapons. In 1971, a convention was adopted banning biological weapons. Bacteriological warfare is of a very specific nature. To spread contaminated material, feathers, insects, animals, and solutions are used, which for a cartoonist is an uncultivated field for plots.
Click to view
In general, the attitude towards the United States was not only hostile, but even disgusting.
As can be seen from the cartoons, both countries have reached unimaginable heights in demonizing each other. The best caricaturists worked on the images, creating memorable characters. The world has changed since then, but the approaches remain the same, but the tools have changed. Caricature, especially political caricature, has lost ground. The main tools have become TV and the Internet, which, as they say, “burn people’s hearts with words,” reinforcing this with visuals. Despite the fact that ominous images were created in the cartoons, it was an abstraction and a person could look at it from the outside. Today's instruments have achieved unprecedented naturalism and people are literally involved in propaganda.
And I would like to end the collection with a life-affirming drawing and a quote from the caption to this drawing “Army of Peace. You're trying in vain, gentlemen! We won’t let him offend!”
Boris Agatov flipped through the dusty pages of "Crocodile"
