Harsh reality is that people always went to the North “for oil” or “for money”, so the Yugra north was very quickly populated by romantics and greedy people. Moreover, by the word “greedy” I also mean those for whom to earn money while in difficult northern conditions, was the only way to provide for my family.
Talk about " high culture"north" is not necessary out loud. All that we have and can actually be of interest is the culture of the ancient peoples of the Khanty and Mansi. The rest is imported, adapted and, in many respects, re-frozen, mutilated, alien ideas. Our cities are only a few years old 50, some 30, but there are rotation camps and urban settlements, popularly called PeGeTe.
Bely Yar is one of the most large towns in the district, it is located 11-12 kilometers from the largest city in Ugra - Surgut. Many Beloyarsk residents go to work in Surgut every day, and many Surgut residents buy apartments (and houses) on White Yar to live in silence and with good ecology.
Once upon a time, the village, like many others, could have looked like this
but now it looks more like this:
high-rise new buildings stand next to prefabricated two- to four-story buildings from the Soviet era, next to which there are completely new buildings.
Now on (note, it is not very customary for us to say “in”) White Yar there are 313 residential buildings, including 162 wooden and only 46 permanent ones. For those who don’t know what “beams” are, look at the second photo, google them - there are as many as 230 of them in the urban settlement.
But no matter how sad these figures may sound, Bely Yar is still developing and in some places looks very, very modern - synthesis Soviet legacy with a modern worldview is felt in every region. Apartment buildings with elevators and insulated walls are being built, as often happens in the North, “straight ahead.” All are bright, colorful and not much different from those in Surgut.
There is no need to swear that “the administration didn’t pay enough attention” or “the administration was passive.” Everything is done according to the plan and allocated budget. If we consider that half of the residents of the urban settlement are residents of Surgut, then it is worth asking the question - wouldn’t it be easier to move everyone to the city?
What is Bely Yar?
Bely Yar is not that new. Back in 1850, a pier appeared near the modern settlement. It was used to gather firewood for passing steamships traveling along the Tyumen-Barnaul route. About 20 years later, four barns and residential buildings were lined up on the pier.
Now you will be very surprised, but...
a steamship moored at the Beloyarsk pier in 1881, on which it traveled across Siberia and Far East 23 year old future Emperor Russian Empire Nikolai Romanov. A few years ago, a permanent exhibition dedicated to the House of the Crowned Family even appeared in the local museum.
Nothing foreshadowed rapid development, but soon a village was formed, which in 1930 was put on the map of the Surgut region by someone unknown to us. The village, however, took a long time to appear - first a meteorological station was installed in it (1879), then a one-kilometer dirt road was laid to Surgut (1881), a water-measuring station was built (1893), a telephone line...
If you go a little further along the timeline, you will see the appearance of fishermen and a collective farm named after them. Voroshilov. Residents began to raise bees, engage in livestock farming, and in 1964 oil workers began to come here. They had somewhere to work - in the first specialized office of the Tyumentehsnabneft trust, which 14 years later gave Russia the largest Central Pipe Base in the country's oil and gas sector.
The path of growth from a village to a working settlement took Bely Yar 54 years old. When it was simply impossible to contain workers arriving and arriving in the North from all over the USSR. WITH high speed kindergartens, schools, a training and production plant were built...
White Yar paradox
Residents of an urban settlement in social networks indicate the place of residence of Surgut, which is why they are so difficult to calculate. The only group on VKontakte, dedicated to life on the White Yar, and essentially promoting Surgut opportunities and brands, is more than half filled with Surgut residents. Although there is still a question about geotargeting and other settings.
Surgut residents somehow got lazy too quickly and the best they can do is go to Thailand or Egypt. Rare specimens are sent to Moscow to change planes and fly somewhere else. That is, their entire “long journey” consists of a route to the airport or railway station. What I mean is that Surgut residents can rarely be found on White Yar.
However, we yagrigorieva wrong comrades - we just need some direction, so one day we went to urban settlement look for inspiration.
At first we found inspiration in graffiti, but it turned out that their presence on the walls of houses is rather a rare exception than a tradition.
Maxim Yarovoy, known throughout the district for being a “graffiti collector” (he holds the only graffiti festival in the district and has a graffiti school), dreams of making all the cities and towns of our region bright. He definitely needs to go to Bely Yar.
Three wall paintings, which are already noticeably worn out, and this rock painting on one of the residential buildings are all that Natalya Karzakova and I found in the urban settlement.
Although no, it seems that this patriotic note was found on the wall of the city clinic, the essence of which is not entirely clear.
At first glance, Bely Yar differs little from any other village, but I still got used to paying attention not to the similarities, but to the differences. Feel the lifestyle local residents in all its little details - isn’t that the most pleasant thing?
It would be nice to go to a new place well-read and prepared, but the information on the Internet is such that “wow!” - very little. Three articles at most. From them you recreate history bit by bit, you learn that since 1962, almost the “first person in the village” was the librarian Ogareva, to whom everyone went for warm communication. Ogareva no, no, and he’ll slip it to someone smart book read. This is how a love of literature was instilled, which later turned into a total knowledge of Russian classics and the mass naming of streets after the names of writers (more on this below).
Or here's another fact.
In the 30s, a fishing village appeared, and after the Second World War the village turned into the central estate of the Lenin's Path collective farm. After 20 years, it grew into the “Surgutsky” state farm, the history of which can be written even now - since 1984, the “Surgutskaya” poultry farm began operating there.
If our strength and intelligence allow, we will go with the guys to visit them as soon as it gets warmer for a photo-video-text walk.
I noticed that what smaller territory settlements, the more soulfully people decorate their homes. Such decors can rarely be found in cities - people have already become lazy and ashamed of the manifestation of their imagination and imagination. If the drawings are definitely graffiti, the artists must be professional and from Moscow or St. Petersburg.
At White Yar, however, you can come across such amazing outbursts of original ideas that you clap your hands joyfully. The photo below shows the work of a resident of the house who has grandchildren. A woman standing on the second floor balcony told us about this. In summer you can see garden gnomes, swans, baskets of flowers, and even real wooden carts with hedgehogs!
“Why did you come to us in winter? You should have come in summer!”
How to answer this?
The smaller the space, the more refined it is. The next day, Natasha and I went to the city of Lyantor (population 40,000 people) and were also surprised at the decoration of residential buildings. One cannot but rejoice that the housing and communal services department encourages such beauty and hangs almost congratulatory signs on houses.
In my 17-storey building I just read pieces of paper saying “Your debt for the entrance is... rubles.”
Sometimes the decoration of houses is not entirely noticeable, but butterflies on the porch of an old wooden house they look very nice.
In the "regions" you can often find decorating something with old soft toys. The pranksters of this kebab stall clearly demonstrated from whom they prepare their meat joys.
But what struck me most at White Yar were the benches. We found two original ones, but we are fully confident that there are about two dozen of them - original and with a “human face”.
Temples of Bely Yar
If Surgut is in lately becomes a center of Orthodox tourism in Ugra (operates convent in honor of the icon of the Mother of God, every year - new temple), then at White Yar they are also trying to keep up.
The photo below shows the Temple under construction in honor of the Kazan Icon Mother of God. Local residents say that work was suspended in the winter, but the first services could be held in 2017.
The choice of location was not simple - there is a river behind it, and it itself is located on a hill. In May 2005, a memorial plaque was installed here in memory of Sotnik Nikolai Nikolaevich, who died in the line of duty military duty in the North Caucasus (Afghanistan, Chechen Republic) and posthumously awarded the Order of Courage.
Another Orthodox church - of amazing beauty - is located on the territory of the Center children's creativity. Next to it is a bell tower, the ringing of which notifies residents of the beginning of the service.
What is also noteworthy about the Temple in honor of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker, which opened in July 2000, is that the author of the project and the architect-executor was the resident of Bely Yar himself - Valery Bychin. I would be very glad to meet him in person.
District Center children's creativity on White Yar
And here is the Center for Children's Creativity itself. I'll tell you what's in our area interesting feature, which I cannot yet call a tradition. Create educational institutions all inclusive type. That is, there is an area in which you live (dormitories), study, walk in the park/alleys and immediately have fun/develop (museums, interest clubs).
In Surgut there is industrial college, which is located somewhere on the outskirts (sorry if I offended anyone). You arrive there and don’t understand where you find yourself - either in a European quarter with a green lawn, or in some closed area for smart people. Or they have been arguing for many years about central part Surgut local architects have already rejected a ton of projects! They want around state university do EVERYTHING. Well, that's just all.
Can the Children's Creativity Center on White Yar be considered a local landmark? Yes, quite. And here’s your proof of the museum’s porch, which Natasha and I never got to because the lights were turned off in the institution. And it’s very interesting to look at what they did in the urban settlement about the Romanov family! I was just recently in Tobolsk...
Now there are several schools on Bely Yar - first 1, 3, 4 appeared and only then the second... Those parents who are “very rich” are ready to take their child to the Surgut gymnasium every day, but there are few of them.
First primary school opened in the village at the end of the war - in 1944. It was headed by 19-year-old Komsomol member A. Chemakin. Just imagine - at that age and the responsibility of teaching!
We were able to visit inside music school. Now it looks completely different than it did in 1976 - more modern, having moved to a new building in 2007. And now it’s called “Beloyarsk School of Arts”. The hall is small, you immediately come across a wardrobe and offices radiating in both directions, but you feel: there is life here!
You get out of it and immediately run into a wooden tower. This is the only hotel in the city settlement.
Beloyarsk residents are not left without sports. On Russian Constitution Day 2007, a large sports complex "Vityaz" was opened. Until this moment, only the complex, which is presented below, operated in the urban settlement. Of course, there is room for choice: if you want to ski, here’s a ski resort; if you want to play football, you’re welcome.
The photo below shows one of the oldest institutions in the urban settlement - the Center for Leisure and Creativity. It opened in 1963 and is still operating today, housing 22 creative teams. Beloyarsk residents are especially proud of the dance "Kaleidoscope", VIA "Planning Department", the ensemble "Sibiryaki", the Beloyarsk choir and the theater group "Mosaic". All of them are regular winners of various regional and Russian festivals and competitions.
Available on White Yar large area, on which all memory is concentrated... This place is called the Square "In Memory of the Fallen".
Square "In Memory of the Fallen"
At the square, renovated on the eve of the 60th anniversary celebration Great Victory(2005), in fact there are many problems. Walking along it, you can remember not only the past, but also the present. If you move from the central part, you can see the “Pride of the Village” honor board. It is updated every year and it is indeed a very honor to be included in your photograph - for this you first need to receive an honorary diploma of “Public Recognition” for the useful activities carried out.
A little further from the honor board you can see the stele “To those who fell for the Fatherland,” also created, like the temple, by Beloyarsk resident Valery Bychin. The stele can be considered one of the oldest attractions in the village - it was installed already in June 1994.
On the memorial plaques you can make out the names of Beloyarsk residents who went to war but never returned. Next to the stele in 2005, the “Walk of Fame” was founded, where a personalized spruce tree was planted in honor of each fighter.
A little further away is the “Alley of Newlyweds”, which appeared in the village in 2012. Next to the square there is an incredibly beautiful park - a place where all the young mothers and fathers roam fresh air with strollers.
The most literary urban settlement in Russia
On White Yar, Natasha and I searched in vain for streets not named after names literary heroes. We found very little - all the main ones, the most extensive ones were “literary”. Whether this was invented with intent or not, I don’t know, but here you will meet people who know who Fadeev, Ostrovsky, Tolstoy, Nekrasov, Yesenin, Gorky, Simonov, Shukshin, Mayakovsky are...
By the way, such literary quality could well become part of the brand.
Of the exceptions are Lesnaya, Naberezhnaya, Sovkhoznaya, Kushnikova, Ermaka streets...
Why am I so surprised? Because in our district it is somehow customary to assign the names of famous oil workers to the streets, but here, you know, everything is different.
I couldn't pass by this entrance. It seems like there is nothing unusual - the inscription on a brick wall is in clumsy childish handwriting, however, I see in it a whole philosophy of life. This is because in the north quite a lot of residents are not Slavic appearance. “Adlan” is out of line here, but he is a resident of White Yar like everyone else.
When I arrived at Bely Yar a long time ago, I was proudly informed that for many decades the most important place was the Bathhouse, and not the Administration. Do I need to explain why?
Now take a look at the house in which the pharmacy base is located, and be transported to Soviet times.
In 1957, there was only one doctor for the entire village - paramedic Aleftina Kondakova. It would seem, what’s wrong with a population of only 400 people, why more? But only 20 years later, White Yar had its own pediatrician and midwife...
For some reason I was happy when I found “the most stylish store” on White Yar. In those who live in major cities, it cannot cause delight - it is too typical, but when walking through an urban settlement, it really stands out very much.
Of course, there are not too many attractions on White Yar, but the people are kind and sympathetic. Unfortunately, we didn’t see it (or maybe we passed by and simply didn’t notice - there are no signs anywhere like in Khanty-Mansiysk!)
no memorial plaque to them. Georgiy Gavrilovich Kushnikov - once the chairman of the collective farm "Lenin's Way", a WWII veteran and holder of the Order of Lenin - which was "developed" by an employee of the regional organizational and methodological center,
not a memorial stone with a worship cross, installed in 2011 in honor of the 120th anniversary of the arrival of our future Emperor at the Beloyarsk pier,
But for me, a local attraction has always been and will be a donut stall, where for 100 rubles you can get 5 of the hottest, sweetest, most delicious real donuts in a paper bag. And let all the franchises be offended by me now.
Workers' village Bely Yar located in the eastern part Tomsk region, 300 kilometers from Tomsk. The administration of Verkhneketsky is located in the village municipal district. Bely Yar is located on the left bank of the Ket River. The name comes from the high bank with white clay on which the village stands.
Transport
Bely Yar - final railway station on a branch leading from Tomsk. WITH regional center The village and neighboring settlements are connected by road. In Bely Yar there is a pier for communication along the river. There was once a passenger airfield in the village.
Story
The official founding date of Bely Yar is 1930. The village arose on the site of a yurt where the Selkups lived. In the 1930-50s, the settlement developed through the efforts of special settlers: dispossessed peasants exiled to Siberia. Greatest development logging reached, in which special settlers were involved.
In 1939, Bely Yar became a regional center, and in 1961 it was transformed into a workers’ village. In 1973, a railway was brought here.
One of the oldest districts of the Tomsk region is Verkhneketsky; in 2014 it celebrated its 75th anniversary. The center of the district is the urban-type settlement of Bely Yar, located on the left bank of the Ket River, 300 kilometers north of Tomsk. The district ranks second in the region in terms of area, second only to Kargasoksky, the area of the Verkhneketsky district is 43.3 thousand square kilometers, which is home to 16.8 thousand people (eighth place in the region), with a population density of less than 0.4 people per person square kilometer.
Clicking on the image will open a higher resolution photo in a new window.
Story
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The territory of the future region was considered inaccessible, mainly the indigenous Selkup and Evenki people lived here, in 12 populated areas(“Yurtakh”) there were about 600 people. In the early 30s of the 20th century, 16 settlements were formed here, in which 18 thousand special settlers were accommodated.
The decision to form the Verkhneketsky district was made on June 22, 1939, then it became part of Novosibirsk region, Tomsk region was formed later, on August 13, 1944. The name comes from the Ket River, which crosses its territory for almost 600 kilometers.
The village of Bely Yar was founded in 1930, it got its name thanks to high bank Keti, on which it is located. In 1961, the Tomsk Regional Executive Committee assigned Bely Yar the status of a workers' village.
3. On the shore of the Keti, not far from the pier, there is a monument to the residents of the area who died during the Great Patriotic War. Patriotic War
4. In the center of the village, not far from the administration building, a wooden Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord was built 
5. In 2014, as part of the celebration of the 75th anniversary of the district, a memorial sign “This is our land with you!” was unveiled in the park near the district administration building! 
Transport
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Most of the roads in the area do not have hard surface, some of them are only seasonal. Road communication with Tomsk is possible in two ways. Shortest path runs through the city of Asino, its length is 300 kilometers. Main part the route will pass along the gravel road, according to local residents, during high water periods the road can be flooded in places by meltwater. A longer route runs through the city of Kolpashevo, in this case you will have to cross the Ob River, the length of the route will be 460 kilometers, however, in this case most will pass the way along the P398 highway, which has a hard surface.
7. The Pervomaiskoye - Ulu-Yul - Bely Yar highway runs parallel to the railway and crosses it several times; all crossings are equipped with light and sound alarms 
Distances were calculated using the Yandex Maps service, as starting point The monument to the An-2 aircraft (Bely Yar) was chosen along the route; the end point was the administration building of the Tomsk region (Tomsk, Lenin Square, 6).
IN Soviet era There was an airfield in Bely Yar, the runway was covered with concrete slabs, flights were carried out on An-2 aircraft. In the 1990s, the airport was closed and the runway was dismantled. Currently, regional authorities are planning to restore air communication with the area.
8. In memory of the fact that there was once an airfield in the area, a monument to the An-2 aircraft was erected on one of the central streets of the village 
« We are waiting for the approval of new requirements for airports, in present moment legislation does not differentiate between airfields located in big cities and small villages. Because of this, maintaining small airports with one or two flights per day has become economically unprofitable. We are working on the issue of restoring the runway in the Verkhneketsky region and opening direct flights with the regional center“said Leonid Reznikov, Deputy Governor of the Tomsk Region for Industry and Fuel and Energy Complex.
The Bely Yar station is located a few kilometers from the village; a new station was opened here in the fall of 2007. This is the final destination railway, which connects the area with the Trans-Siberian Railway. The steel line came to the Verkhneketsky region in 1971; trains operate on diesel locomotive traction up to the Itatka station. A passenger train runs daily between Bely Yar and Tomsk-II station, the travel time is about six hours.
9. Bely Yar station station
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11. Village pier. As far as I know, small boats are used to communicate between the regional center and remote villages, other details about the work water transport I don't know in the area. 
Economy
12. Loading timber into gondola cars at Bely Yar station 
The flagships of the region's economy are enterprises in the timber industry; this area has been developing since 1927. The region ranks fourth in terms of timber harvesting volume. There are proven mineral reserves here: oil, gas, iron ore and peat.
« In the near future, two new enterprises will open in our area that will process timber. They will give us new jobs and provide additional taxes for the local budget, in the future we will be able to use these funds for the development of the region“, noted Gennady Yatkin, head of the Verkhneketsky district.
The most important question social sphere district - heating, now it has a very high cost, this is due to the fact that most boiler houses operate on coal. It is planned to increase the share of local fuel in the region through the use of sawdust. This will reduce the cost of the services provided, reducing transport costs, and also solve the problem of recycling waste from timber processing.
13. District administration building 
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16. Pier 
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